31st Meeting of the Task Force on CSITC

Monday, 18 April 2022 

Virtual 

8:00-10:30 AM (EST) 

2:00-2:30 PM (CEST) 

The Task Force on Commercial Standardisation of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC) conducted its 31st meeting on Monday, 18 April 2022, virtually.

Members Present 

  • Dr Marinus (René) van der Sluiis, Principal Consultant ,Textile Technical Services, Australia (Chair) 
  • Mr Axel Drieling, Faserinstitut Bremen, Germany
  • Mr Peter Wakefield, Wakefield Inspection Services and Chairman, Private Sector Advisory Council (PSAC)
  • Mr Darryl Earnest, Deputy Administrator, USDA AMS, USA
  • Dr Jean Paul Gourlot, CIRAD Persyst, France
  • Ms. Gretchen Deatherage, Director Standardization, USDA, USA
  • Dr Mohammed Negm, Head of Spinning Research Department, Cotton Research Institute, Egypt
  • Prof. Suzan Husseini Sanad, Cotton Research Institute, Egypt
  • Mr Pardeep Kumar, Chairman Cotton Corporation of India, India

Observers 

  • Mr Karsten Froese, BBB/ICA Bremen
  • Dr Stuart Gordon, CSIRO Australia
  • Mr Peyman Dehkordi, Uster Technologies, USA
  • Mr Hossein Ghorashi, HMG Consulting

ICAC Secretariat 

  • Mr Kai Hughes, Executive Director
  • Mr Mike McCue, Director of Communications
  • Mr Kanwar Usman, Head of Textiles

Members Not Present 

  • Ms Mariana Carfagnini, Coordinator of the Textile Physical Unit of the Center for Textile Research, Argentina
  • Mr Ramiro Casoliba, Director Del Centro Intl, Argentina
  • Mr Gregory Parle, Australian Food and Fibre, Australia
  • Eng. Mohamed Khalil Khedr, Chairman CATGO – Cotton Arbitration & Testing General Organization, Egypt Dr Urania Kechagia, Consultant Cotton and Industrial Plants Institute, Greece
  • Prof. Iwona Frydrych, Vice President, Gdynia Cotton Association, Poland
  • Mr Fatih Dogan, Vice President, Mediterranean Textile and Raw materials Exporters Associations, Turkey
  • Mr Patrick Ilukat, Cotton Development Organization, Uganda

Due to the tragic passing of Mr Andrew Macdonald, long-time Chair of CSITC, Mr  Hughes, Executive Director, International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), initiated the proceedings of the 31st Meeting of the Task Force on Commercial Standardisation of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC).

Mr  Hughes said that the ICAC has hired its first-ever Head of Textiles, Mr Kanwar Usman, who previously was Director General of the Textile Division in Pakistan’s Ministry of Commerce. He has more than 21 years of experience in various sectors of the textile value chain including working in a textile mill, textiles university and a brand, the last fourteen of which were spent working as Director and Director General. His received an MBA from the University of East London and a Bachelor of Science degree in Textile Engineering from the National Textile University in Faisalabad, Pakistan.

1. Adoption of Agenda 

The agenda for 31st meeting of the Task Force on CSITC was adopted.

2. Tribute to Mr Andrew Macdonald 

Mr  Hughes paid tribute to Mr Andrew Macdonald and said that he was the most amazing husband, father, grandfather, and friend. Mr Macdonald was the CSITC Chair since its founding in 2003. Mr  Macdonald chaired thirty meetings of the CSITC during his tenure as Chair. Mr Hughes highlighted his extraordinary achievements. Which also included serving as Chair of Spinning Committee for the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF).

3. Election of a New Chair 

Mr Hughes then referred the working paper (Annexure-I) to elect a new Chair and Vice Chair for CSITC. Mr  Wakefield asked whether we really need a Vice Chair, suggesting there could be technical advisors to assist the Chair as it was this year. Mr Drieling said that things were fine without a Vice Chair. Mr Hughes agreed and asked whether if there is anyone who wants to volunteer to be Chair. Mr Earnest proposed Dr van der Sluijs for the position and Dr van der Sluijsaccepted and thanked members for their vote of confidence.

4. Approval of the Minutes of 30th Meeting in Brisbane, Australia, December 2019 

The Task Force approved the minutes of 30th Meeting held in Brisbane, Australia, in December 2019.

5. Latest on latest Round Trial Results and Comparisons 

Mr Dreiling delivered a presentation, ‘CSITC Task Force Contributions’, which is the most important and regular feature of every meeting of the Task Force on CSITC. Mr Drieling shared the latest results from participation in the Round Trials and the marketing brochures for CSITC Round Trials, then provided background on the Round Trials. He added that every laboratory recieves an overall evaluation for all six properties.

Mr Drieling explained that the deviation between the laboratories, which is directly related to the evaluation of combined properties, has been steadily decreasing from the 0.5 recorded in 2007. The results in initial years got worst because new laboratories were participating and needed time for improvement. Since 2012, when number of participants were quite constant, results have been improving that means variation between the laboratories was decreasing and for the first time results decreased to 0.3. He said there was a visible improvement from 2010 to the present.

The best instrument was at 0.15, and that in each Round  it was not the same instrument. Mr Drieling informed that 25% of the instruments median was close of 0.25 and that 50% of the instruments was less than 0.3 and 75% of the instruments had a  median of 0.35. He said that in 2015 the level of  0.5 was achieved by the better half of the laboratories, but thatthis was now not sufficient to be in 75% of the best laboratories.

Mr Drieling noted that variation in results  between laboratories had also been steadily decreasing specifically in micronaire, strength, length and colour in terms of Rd and +b and that the evaluation of single properties now is  0.32.

The standard deviation for micronaire has improved and in 2007 it was close to 0.08; and now it was a little over 0.04. Similarly, results have improved for strength and length. In the case of uniformity there has been a slight improvement, but it was already  good. The Colour Rd values were initially high because new laboratories were joining the Round Trials program, but improvement has been made. He said that positive results have also been achieved for Short Fibre Index as well.

Mr Drieling said that there was an increase in the participating laboratories from 2007 to 2012, and mostly the participation is high during first and second Round Trials. Since 2018-19, the participation has continuously been decreasing and this decline has to be stopped. He shared that the number of laboratories participating is now almost the same to when  this program was started in 2007, although the total number of instruments have increased. Mr Drieling informed that laboratories of the countries having high participation are United States, Brazil, and India with 17, 14 and 13 respectively. He also mentioned that some  countries have already reached the optimum level, such as in the case of Australia where the number of participating laboratories seems low i.e., four, however, they only have four laboratories in Australia. In the case of Brazil, all the laboratories are not included but all laboratories involved in cotton production and cotton classing for production are part of the CSITC Round Trials. He also gave an overview of the sector to which the laboratory has been providing the services. He said that the vast majority of the instruments are providing services to the production / classing / cotton associations and if we add control laboratories then 55 instruments are from this sector. Importantly, he raised concern that only 5 instruments have been participating from the spinning sector but that that classing instrument manufacturers have 6 instruments in CSITC Round Trials.

Lastly, he mentioned that to attract the textiles value chain and provide information various brochures have been developed whichshould be shared with members.

Mr Hughes then opened the forum for questions and comments. Dr  van der Sluijs asked that improvement in results that could be due to newer instruments such as the Uster-1000, especially in Rd and +b value.

Dr Gourlot asked that how many laboratories are working in each country. Mr Drieling said it is possible but if we look at the spinning sector then it is difficult to get these numbers but there would be many machines installed in spinning sector rather than in production. He further said that by having larger samples, and 30 tests per instrument on the sample, reduces variation.

Mr Hughes thanked Mr Drieling and commentedthat his presentation provided a good basis for further discussions.

6. Results of Short Fibre Index (SFI) measurements by Ms Gretchen Deatherage 

Ms Deatherage said we still do not have an official standard for calibration of SFI and that Mr Drieling had shared the information on SFI and  showed that currently where we are on Short Fiber Measurements.

7. Update on Instrument Testing Interpretation Guidelines by Dr Jean Paul Gourlot 

Dr Gourlot said that the ‘interpretation guide’ explains how to interpret data provided by testing machines for cotton characteristics such as: micronaire, length, strength, colour, trash, moisture, spinning consistency index, neps, and stickiness. This free guide was released in April 2020 in English, Portuguese and French and is available on ICAC, ITMF, CSITC and CIRAD websites. He said there were plans to periodically review/revise the guideline, so it was important that the members provide feedback. Regarding translation into other languages, Dr Negm offered to translate the guideline into Arabic. Mr Hughes thanked Dr Gourlot and said it was a lot of work and that  people would provide  feedback and comments on Testing Interpretation Guidelines.

8. Progress report of International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM) of International Textile Manufacturers Association (ITMF) 

Mr Drieling noted that the mandate of ICCTM is general in nature, and it encourages research to develop commercially useful tests, recognition of instruments and testing methods and harmonise cotton testing results. He said that at the next meeting –  scheduled for September 2022 – that one of main topics would be recognition of testing instruments for specific fibre characteristics.

9. Reports from Technical Centres and Regions 

Mr Drieling said that two Regional Technical Centres (RTC) were established under the Common Fund Project – — one for East and Southern Africa in Tanzania and the other for West and Central Africa in Mali. Mr Drieling added that they will contact the RTCs and get feedback on their recent activities. Dr Gourlot asked for a brief on RTC in Brazil; Mr Drieling said there is an RTC in Brazil which is doing extraordinary. He added that it has continuous systems of checking/auditing by the Central Laboratory.

In Argentina there is no central organisation to coordinate entire areas of the country. Mr Hughes noted that since his last visit to Argentina, the main goal should be the creation of a single entity that controls all laboratories for auditing and quality assurance.

10.

  • Increasing Participation in Round Trials  

    Mr Ghorashi explained that when he met with the CEO of Uster, the objective was to provide the Round Trial free of charge to users. It was a good idea but some customers who were not interested in the programme requesated for a discount from the price of the equipment instead, so it was never fully implemented.

    Mr Ghorashi said that participation of instrument manufacturers was crucial so there should be a financial angle for instrument manufacturers, such as providing service contracts for the instruments, and that there should be a vehicle for a quick and instantaneous feedback to HVI users about their performance . Most laboratories collect the data on a computer so CSITC could install software on the instruments to analyse the test results of the Round Trial and inform users if there was a issue.

    Mr Hughes then asked Mr Usman to deliver his presentation. Mr Usman reviewed past efforts to increase Round Trial participation, such as creating the marketing brochures, and shared the statistics for cotton production and yarn trade as well as the approximate number of HVIs in the world and the number of instruments taking part in Round Trials.

    Mr Usman  shared the ICAC’s initial idea for promoting Round Trials: Make it a ‘brand’ that adds credibility to the product because it ensures that everyone in the cotton textile value chain gets the right price.

    The other idea was that the in a bottom-up approach, spinning was considered the ‘last’ sector. However, he pointed out that the majority of sustainability efforts in the textiles value chain has been led by retailers and brands, so they should be made aware that cotton utilised in manufacturing of their yarn should be tested on CSITC-tested instruments to help farmers get the right price.

    Turning to the new Private Sector Advisory Council (PSAC) Mr Usman said fifty-three associations have already joined and 47 more were considering it. The CSITC can also be discussed at these forums to get feedback and also to provide an opportunity for stakeholders to highlight the importance of Round Trials. He concluded his presentation by emphasising the need to brand CSITC Round Trials.

    Mr Hughes thanked Mr Usman for his presentation and said the key to success would be getting spinners and spinning associations to understand the value of participating in CSITC and that rewarding them in some way would be crucial. He pointed out that CSITC has been operating at a loss for the last few years.

    On a question about giving top-performing organisations some kind of recognition for excellent performance, Mr Drieling replied that results of the Round Trials are strictly confidential, adding that some of the variation comes from the materials, which cannot be controlled by the laboratories. Mr Hughes proposed having discussions with instrument manufacturers to increase their participation and engagement.

    Mr Dehkordi said it is an issue of awareness, a lack of marketing and advertising. Several members mentioned the importance of trust and that being a CSITC Round Trial participant can help organisations earn that with their customers.

    Dr Gourlot asked  Mr Dehkordi that is it kind of coaching you want to include in this CSITC program. Mr Dehkordi replied that in some of discussion he had with Mr Ghorashi about more involvement of Uster with the program and offering our customers it really made sense. Now what the customers would be thinking that we have received our results from Mr Drieling, and know our ranking but what we do next, and you can call it coaching or consultation service to help these laboratories to go to next level. Mr  Wakefield added a comment that he agreed with Mr Dehkordi as we have seen this at a practical level with a shipment arrived at a mill and mill has drawn a sample and tested on their instrument and filed a claim, and merchant did not accept the claim and asked us to visit and take the sample and check at our machine or send this to Bremen. We went there and did the testing but also looked at the laboratory and it was brilliant, and we could not find any reason and it may be a bad day for operator or something went wrong, but at other instances we have seen laboratories which are not operated properly so in reality we need to do something for such laboratories. Also, we need to teach the spinning mill that what is the advantage of ensuring that their cotton is tested properly, is there any financial benefit associated with it and similarly they have yarn testing equipment and how we can teach them that is there any financial gain or loss with this kind of testing and by operating in right manner will give you in long term higher profits. Mr Wakefield said that he did not know an answer yet.

    Mr Ghorashi said organizations you have mentioned are examples for the others, the answer to the question is by again posing a question that apart from those already participating who are to show and they are doing test and test until they get a good result. True value is not just feeling good, feeling good is part of it, it has to be contribution that this program brought to them. He said that he does not know that what this program really brings for the existing participants. He said that he has participated in these meeting from the beginning, and the only progress that he has seen has been in data collection and processing, credit goes to Mr Drieling. Further, he

    mentioned the offensive and defensive strategies are being mixed up and sometimes mistakenly combined. He said that, in his opinion, the value of “quarterly recognitions” was not high causing additional expenses, and possibly result in bad blood amongst participants. This is in addition to the confidentiality issues raised by Mr Drieling. He further added that the defensive strategy should be devised around the reasons of those who opt out the program. These reasons should be analyzed and corrective actions planed. Of course, the reasons mentioned by Mr Drieling (stopped government support, political issues, lack of funds, etc.) fall outside of the control of this body. The comments on an offensive strategy, i.e., presentations, brochures, etc. were good, but could not convince new users. He stated that the answer lies in the reasons that existing users stay in the program. These reasons must be more than just “good feelings”. There must be concrete financial gains in terms of trade (trust factor), gains in operational efficiencies due to confidence in data, etc.

    Mr Usman asked from Mr  Ghorashi that is there any program by Uster which tells the laboratory of the spinning mill (in some areas ginner is not providing any result to spinning mill) that your instrument is working properly as in case of any defect the spinning mills will either by under or over paying. Mr Ghorashi  replied that Uster does not has any such program and basically the responsibility is with the user. They have the option of participating in the Round Trial or they have their calibration cotton and if they find any problem then they can contactUster to resolve their issues. So the whole initiative starts with the user and Uster becomes a respondent to the issues of the user and machines, and with the best of my knowledge there is no a proactive program which checks the performance of instrument regularly.. Drvan der Sluijs commented that Uster also provides service contracts in which technician comes and checks the instruments and now you have qualification cotton from USDA, and this gives you more confidence on your instrument and from all these discussions we come to the point that everyone is talking about the value. Involving brands and retailers is a good idea but it’s a long term approach and may take ten years or twenty years. We need to think what we need to do now. We are not going to solve it now, but it is good to have a conversation. Mr Wakefield said the problem is that few laboratories are  taking the service contracts, so they are not having the constant maintenance of their instruments. Mr  Hughes asked that there must be a cost for Uster for calibration cotton and can they use CSITC program as a replacement of their calibration cotton and that this would promote CSITC. Dr van der Sluijs said that they are so separate and HVI at times require calibration checks a  couple of times in day.

    Mr  Ghorashi  mentioned that  there was always hope for future and technology development and what Mr Usman was talking about was possible through an intelligent testing instrument in ours was an instrument and we kicked that around with the available technology which was far fetched and also with the budget that was for development but ideally you want to have a instrument which checks its self you want to have internal diagnostics, to look at the performance of various components hardware, software calibration and they will let the user know that something is not working. But with the current number of instruments, it would probably not be feasible for instrument manufacturers to invest money to develop such intelligent instruments but this is an ideal situation.

    To help explain the value, Mr Drieling said we already have flyers for spinners and traders and offered to work with Mr McCue to develop them further. Mr Hughes suggested that Mr McCue speak with members of the PSAC to help formulate a strategy.

    11. To decide the venue/date for the 32nd meeting of the CSITC, in-person/hybrid 

    Mr Drieling proposed that the next meeting may be held the day before the start of with the Bremen Conference, which is scheduled for 29-30 September 2022. Mr Hughes pointed out that it would give people an opportunity to meet in person and get back to normal.

    12. Administrative Matters 
    13. No administrative matters were discussed. The meeting ended with a vote of thanks from and to the Chair.

    • Dr Mansurbek Muminov is a senior scientist at the Scientific Research Institute of Fiber Crops in Uzbekistan. His efforts have focused on basic cotton ginning and spinning, and he has authored more than 10 comprehensive research papers in those areas.

     

    Dr. Mansurbek Mo'minov is the Deputy Director for Scientific Affairs and Innovation at the Scientific Research Institute of Fiber Crops in Uzbekistan.

    Dr. Keshav R. Kranthi, Ph.D is the Chief Scientist at the International Cotton Advisory Com­mittee (ICAC), Washington, DC. Before joining the ICAC, he served as the Director of the Central Institute for Cotton Research (CICR) in Nagpur, India, from 2008 to 2017. Dr. Kranthi has thirty-five years of experience as a cotton scientist. He received a gold medal in his Ph.D. in 1991 and has been honored with more than a dozen awards, including the Best CPP Program Award for Research Leadership by the Renewable Natural Resources Research International, UK; the ICAC Researcher of the Year Award in 2009; the Vasantrao Naik Smruti Pratisthan Award in 2004; the ICAR National Award for Leader of Best Team Research in 2006; Fellow of the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences in 2009; the ISCI Recognition Award in 2010; Krishi Gaurav Award in 2010; Bhumi Nirman Award in 2011; ISCI Fellow in 2017; the Plant Protection Recognition Award in 2016 by the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences; Suresh Kotak Global Cotton Award in 2023 and the CRDA life time achievement Award in 2024. Dr. Kranthi has four patents granted in South Africa, Mexico, China, and Uzbekistan, and six patent applications in India. He has published more than 100 peer-reviewed research papers, 20 books/handbooks/manuals, 17 book chapters, and more than 50 popular articles. Dr. Kranthi has presented invited talks and conducted training sessions in more than 40 countries. His research citations are in excess of 6,500. As the chief principal investigator, he coordinated and led more than 35 externally funded international collaboration research projects.

    Dr. Charudatta Mayee, Ph.D is a distinguished Indian agricultural scientist and administrator with over five decades of contributions to Indian agriculture. Dr. Mayee currently serves as Adjunct Professor at IARI, New Delhi, and several ICAR institutions and universities. Dr Mayee served as Vice Chancellor of MAU Parbhani, Director of the Central Institute for Cotton Research (ICAR-CICR), Nagpur, and Agriculture Commissioner for the Government of India. Dr Mayee served as Vice President of the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences (NAAS) India. Dr. C.D. Mayee has received numerous accolades spanning five decades, recognizing his transformative contributions to agricultural science. He is an Alexander von Humboldt Fellow and has received lifetime achievement awards from multiple institutions. His early career was marked by the Prof. M.J. Narasimhan Academic Award (1974) and V.P. Gokhale Award (1998), followed by national honors like the Vasantrao Naik Krishi Award (2002), ICAR Outstanding Team Research Award (2003), and Dr. B. Vishwanath Award (2005). He received Lifetime Achievement Awards from the Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (2008), National Academy of Agricultural Sciences (2011), and Indian Phytopathological Society (2017), among others. Four universities conferred Honorary Doctorates (D.Sc.) for his pioneering work (2009–2023). Recent distinctions include the  Best Cotton Scientist Award (2022, Cotton Association of India), Krishi Maharshi for Cotton R&D (2024) and the winner of the ICAC Researcher of the Year Award 2025.

    Dr. Khalid Mahmood is the Co-Founder of SAWiE, where he has been instrumental in developing digital farm advisory and farm data platforms supporting over 10,000 farmers in Pakistan, improving traceability and transparency across agricultural supply chains. He is leading the development of first-mile traceability systems and the TRUE Cotton platform, connecting farmers with sustainable global textile supply chains.

    He also serves as Head of Partnerships at the British Society of Soil Science (BSSS), where he leads strategic collaborations to position soil health as a critical climate mitigation solution, linking soil management with carbon sequestration, water quality, air quality, and biodiversity restoration.

    Trained as an Agricultural Economist (PhD, University of Göttingen, Germany), Dr. Mahmood combines strong scientific expertise with practical innovation to address global challenges in food security, ESG reporting, climate resilience, and sustainable agriculture.

    His past work includes leadership in research programs on carbon reduction in rice and livestock systems, and collaboration with leading institutions such as Rothamsted Research, AHDB UK, and the Thünen Institute (Germany).

    Dr. Mahmood is a Fellow of the Higher Education Academy (UK) and has contributed to international research and knowledge networks including IFCN and UPSIGN.

    Recognized among the Net Zero 50 Leaders, he continues to advance international partnerships that place soil at the centre of regenerative agriculture, natural capital development, and ecosystem restoration.

     

    Dr Olivier Zieschank studied Management at the university of Lausanne, where he graduated in 2005. Until 2010, he worked in a Swiss-based start-up that specialized in negotiating cell tower lease agreements, where he became associate director. In 2010, he returned to university and studied applied economics in Neuchatel, Switzerland. He wrote his PhD in Economics at the University of Freiberg, Germany, where he developed a theory of organization. Mr Zieschank was appointed Economist at the ITMF in August 2017 and became director in January 2021.

    Ashwin Chandran holds a Bachelors Degree in Textile Technology from UMIST, UK and a Masters degree in Business Administration from the University of Illinois, USA.

    He is currently the Chairman of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) and it’s subsidiary - Cotton Development and Research Association – CITI CDRA. CITI-CDRA works with Indian cotton farmers and collaborates with government bodies and research institutions to improve cotton productivity, promote farmer welfare and expand the knowledge of Indian cotton farmers on the subjects of sustainability, traceability and meeting compliance and certification requirements.

    He is the Chairman & Managing Director of Precot Limited, a manufacturer of yarns, threads and cotton based non-woven hygiene products.

    He is the Chairman of the Indian Textile Sector Skill Council, a member of the Council of Administration of The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL) and is a past Chairman of the Southern India Mills Association (SIMA).

    Mr. Shreyans Gupta is an officer of the Indian Revenue Service (IRS), currently serving as First Secretary at the Embassy of India in Washington D.C. In his current role, he oversees critical portfolios within the Income-tax Overseas Unit (ITOU) and the Commerce Wing, facilitating bilateral and multilateral cooperation.

    Throughout his career, Mr. Gupta has held diverse positions involving both the implementation and policy-making aspects of Indian taxation. His expertise spans complex tax audits, financial and criminal investigations, International Taxation and administration of core IT platforms/infrastructure. He has also served as a delegate of India to various international tax organizations, contributing to high-level discourse on global tax cooperation frameworks

    Eric Trachtenberg is the Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC).

    Before coming to ICAC, he oversaw more than $700 million in programs to improve food security, support agricultural transformation, and strengthen land productivity at the U.S. Millennium Challenge Corporation (MCC).

    His earlier background includes service with USDA’s Foreign Agricultural Service (FAS) in the Russian Federation, China, and Taiwan where he resolved agricultural market access issues totaling more than $1.3 billion, designed and led investment facilitation initiatives that generated more than $10 billion in new activity, and oversaw export development programs worth $10 million.

    He has a Masters in Agricultural Economics from Michigan State University, a Masters in Public Administration from the University of Southern California, and Bachelors degrees in Government and Economics from Cornell University.

    Pia Terasa joined the textile machinery manufacturer Saurer over 25 years ago. She is responsible for marketing and communications at the group level. Coming originally from a non-textile background, market intelligence and business development have played major roles throughout her career. Her current main “hobby” is closely monitoring development of the textile recycling industry and circular economy.

    Dr. Md. Fakhre Alam Ibne Tabib is the former Executive Director of the Cotton Development Board of Bangladesh, with over 32 years of experience in cotton production, research, and development. He has demonstrated strong leadership and communication skills in engaging with national and international stakeholders in the cotton sector.

    His expertise spans Integrated Pest Management (IPM), Integrated Crop Management (ICM), and Good Agricultural Practices (GAP) with a focus on sustainable, regenerative, and organic cotton production. His research interests include high-density planting systems, planting geometry, intercropping, and innovative cropping patterns. Dr. Tabib is also proficient in ICT applications, project planning and monitoring, and scientific report writing.

    Dr. Tabib has played a significant leadership role within the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), serving as Vice-Chair (2023–2024) and Chair (2024–2025) of its Standing Committee. The ICAC is an association of governments of cotton-producing, consuming, and trading countries, recognized by the United Nations as the international commodity body for cotton and related products.

    In addition, he serves as Vice President of the Ecological Society of Bangladesh and contributes actively to the executive bodies of other social and scientific organizations. He earned his Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) in Cotton Cropping Systems in 2013.

    Dr. Tabib has participated in numerous international programs, conferences, and study visits related to cotton across countries including the USA, Türkiye, Uzbekistan, India, Egypt, the Philippines, South Korea, and Malaysia. He has published 12 scientific papers and several articles on cotton in reputed national and international journals and magazines. He is also an active member of multiple professional associations and networks worldwide.

    Dr. Elsie Sia Kanza is the current Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the United Republic of Tanzania to the United States of America and Mexico. Prior to that role, Ambassador Kanza served as Special Advisor to the President of the World Economic Forum, and, before that, Head of Africa and Member of Executive Committee for 10 years championing growth and development in Africa leveraging public private collaboration. In 2015, She was awarded a Doctorate in Business Administration (honoris causa) by the University of Strathclyde for the transformative impact achieved in Africa.

    Ambassador Kanza also served in the government for a decade and a half as economic advisor to the President of the United Republic of Tanzania, as well as in various capacities with the Ministry of Finance and Central Bank of Tanzania.

    In 2008, Ambassador Kanza became an Archbishop Tutu Leadership Fellow, and in 2011 a WEF Young Global Leader. She was also nominated as a Richard von Weizsacker Fellow and highlighted as one of Africa’s 50 most powerful women by Forbes in 2020. Additionally, she has served on various boards, including those of the African Leadership Institute - South Africa, Mercy Corps Europe, The Nature Conservancy Africa Council, and the Uongozi Institute.

    Ambassador Kanza obtained a Bachelor’s degree from the United States International University – Africa in Business Administration and later graduated with a Master's degree in finance from the University of Strathclyde, United Kingdom and an MA in Development Economics, Center for Development Economics, Williams College, USA.

    Alison Ward has over 30 years of international experience in sustainability and corporate affairs. Alison is the CEO of CottonConnect, where she leads a team of over 100 employees, impacting the lives of over 800,000 cotton farmers in India, China, Pakistan, Turkey, Egypt and Bangladesh.  Under Alison’s leadership the organization: drives supply chain transparency connecting sustainable fibres from farm to store; focuses on the rights and skills of women in supply chains through pioneering gender programmes; and continues to develop innovations at a farm level. She leads cotton strategies and programmes for global brands and retailers.

    Previously Alison worked with Mondelez International and Kraft Foods and was the Global Head of Corporate Responsibility at Cadbury.

    With a mission to drive scalable change, Alison served as a Member of the Sustainable Cotton Steering Committee for Textile Exchange.  She sat on the Sustainability Advisory Committee for the London Olympic Games and has been a Coach and Mentor to commercial teams at WWF and the Ethical Trade Initiative. Alison is also a Life fellow of the RSA- Royal Society of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce.

    Alison has completed the Senior Executive Programme at Ashridge Business School and the Business & Sustainability Programme at the Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership. She holds a BA Hons in English from the University of Birmingham.

     

     

    With more than 43 years of experience in textiles and fibre processing, Marinus has extensive commercial knowledge of all facets of the cotton production pipeline from field to fabric, specialising in yarn manufacturing and quality. Amongst others, he is a certified quality expert and is the current chair of ICAC’s Task Force for the Commercial Standardisation of Instrument Testing of Cotton. He is also an executive member of the Australian Cotton Ginners Association and the ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods. Marinus is also a member of the ITMF Spinners Committee and the Cotton Classing Association of Australia, and is the Australian fibre quality technical expert.
    He has authored many articles and technical reports and has been invited to present at numerous domestic and international conferences. He has managed to secure a large and diverse number of projects, service agreements, and commission cotton textile processing work. He has won many awards, including the prestigious Australian Cotton Researcher of the Year Award.

    Navdeep Singh Sodhi began his career at India’s largest cotton-textile company and has 35+ years of international experience in mill operations and management consulting. His expertise includes strategic policy, technology and international trade and investment. With experience in over 50 countries, he advises an international clientele and has conducted multiple international studies on the cotton-textile value chain. These include the global benchmarking study to evaluate the competitiveness of India’s textile industry for the Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL). He contributed to the formulation of the perspective plan for the Indian textile engineering industry (TEI). Mr Sodhi has been supporting the campaign for transformation of cotton in C-4 Countries + Côte d’Ivoire in West Africa and led the flagship study in West Africa commissioned by IFC (World Bank Group) that was recently presented at the World Cotton Day 2023 commemorated under the auspices of UNIDO in Vienna. Mr Sodhi is a partner with Gherzi Textil Organisation, Switzerland, and a Chartered Fellow (C.Text FTI) of the Textile Institute in Manchester, England.

    Experienced professional with over 42 years of expertise in textile plant management, business establishment, plant turnaround, managing turnkey projects and overseeing large textile operations across three continents. Successfully initiated new factories in Asia, Africa, the Middle East, and North America. Has been business head responsible for P&L of large textile operation in Canada and USA.

    Holds a Bachelor’s degree in Textile Technology from PSG College of Technology, India.

    Key areas of expertise include:

    • Turnkey project management
    • Turnaround of large textile plants in diverse geographical locations
    • Establishment and management of businesses in various regions
    • Strategic, financial, and marketing planning and execution for textile plants
    • Product development
    • Customer relationship management

    Name: Mary Concilia Anchang
    Company: Onambele Anchang & Associates
    Country: Cameroon
    Position: Managing Partner
    Website: www.oaalawfirm.com

    Executive Chair

    The African Chamber of Trade and Commerce ACC

    Email: oaalawpartners2@gmail.com, africanchambernetwork@gmail.com

    Websites www.africanchamber-abo.org  www.ficota.org

    Called to the Cameroon Bar in 1993, Barrister Mary Concilia Anchang epse Onambele, is the managing partner at Onambele Anchang & Associates (OAALAW). She demonstrates consistency and dedication in 32 years of National and international legal work and advocacy. Renown for her legal prowess, her ability to delve into unconventional and controversial topics, has earned her access to several platforms at all levels, in the society. In her persuasive urge to address stubborn societal problems in the continent, she has created several tools to express her opinion and drive policy in a wide range of business sectors. She addresses legal, social and economic problems, with the perspective to contribute in crafting novel schemes, policies and practices to oblige relevance and impact for the welfare and livelihood of communities.

    Her law practice, a full-service corporate law firm, serves a broad range of businesses in various industry sectors. Client satisfaction is pivotal at OAALA. Her firm is one of the most sought-after contemporary lawyers in the continent of Africa. Passionate, engaging and focus driven, her peers revere her resolve to address challenging matters in a friendly and dialogue mode. Her brilliance, and keen eye for detail earns great recognition from her clients.

    She is the pioneer African IP lawyer, accredited with the African organization of Intellectual & Industrial property (OAPI) with jurisdiction in 17 countries since 1994.

    In 1998, curious and concerned about Africa`s significant dependence on foreign intellectual property assets and imports of goods and services into the continent, she founded; “The Foundation for the Promotion of Inventions, Innovations, and Artistic Designs” (FPI) to promote research and development for African discoveries, talents, traditional Knowledge and know-how for validation of discoveries for local use and exports to global markets.

    Retained in 1998, to advise the Cameroon Association of Inventors and Innovators, she represented a medicinal cure for hepatitis, known under the trademark ''HEPASOR,” at d the International Exhibition Fair (INPEX) in 1999 in Pittsburgh, where FPI met with Dr. Nakammatz, the renown Japanese inventor of Viagra.

    Then followed, the BBC Tomorrow’s World London Exhibition Fair in 1999, where FPI received an award from Mr. John Trevors, the renowned British inventor of the “Touch lamp” for her exhibitions.

    From 2001 -2006, she accompanied one of Africa`s most revolutionary, controversial and nonconventional research initiatives in HIV /AIDS for therapeutic vaccines. This discovery, led by one of Africa`s most renown Professors, a Surgeon and international award price winner for research in the treatment of retrovirus for Burkitt’s Cancer, Sickle cell and HIV /AIDS. At a time when HIV/AIDs was ravaging lives in the Continent of Africa, she played a very compelling advocacy role at all fronts, while advising on the patentability, design and trademark ownership of the Vaccine process across the globe.

    As Cofounder of the Cameroon National Committee of the International Chamber of Trade & Commerce (ICC Cameroon) in 2021, she stunned the continent, in 2006, with her nomination by the World Business Council, of The International Chamber of Trade & Commerce (ICC) Paris, as the pioneer, African, female country, court member, at the ICC International Court of Arbitration, since its creation in 2023. A mandate she held 4 years..

    From 2004 -2014, as a member of the ICC Paris Intellectual property (IP) and the Arbitration commissions, she contributed with experts from governments, Civil society, multinationals, intra governmental organizations, institutions and businesses, through successive annual COP Conferences, to address policy reviews on the global climate change Agenda, that lead to the signing of, the Paris convention in 2015 on climate change.

    Coupled with her legal practice, she founded & Chairs “The African Chamber of Trade & Commerce” (ACC), a non-profit and non-governmental, private sector chamber, aimed at using Public, Private Partnerships (PPPs) as a strategic tool to build sustainable and resilient infrastructures. The aim is to avoid duplication and stagnation for gainful entrepreneurial business practices.

    Focal on the ACC agenda, is her advocacy for Tripartite Partnerships, that would engage expertise in, North/South, South/South and North/North business ventures. This should invariably contribute towards impactful and traceable development in local African communities. Through this initiative, she pledges to bring her expertise and knowledge into a project, she is deeply passionate about, and believes could shift paradigms in the  continent.. That is; “Institutional Advocacy for 'Africa's Socio-Economic Development."

    Convinced of the need to promote IP asset ownership in Africa for improved wealth for entrepreneurial self-reliant opportunities, she believes validating African inventions and innovations, would pave the way for IP ownership and knowledge transfer for capital markets.

    She has since 2018 created “The International Forum for cotton, textiles, accessories & Fashion (FICOTA) to address the African Cotton value chain and supply chains, as pivotal for talents to create wealth and job opportunities in Africa.

    In prelude to the 4th edition of FICOTA, coming up in November 2026, in Cairo, Egypt, she will be Speaking at the ICAC 83rd plenary conference coming up in Tanzania in November 2025, on the role of National policies for African textiles.

    Transforming Cotton into Textile and things in Africa is a vision, FICOTA promotes for optimization and industrialization of African cotton and Textiles. The game changer for. (www.africanchamber-abo.org) FICOTA is created to facilitate sustainability and optimization in the African cotton value and supply chains from “Seed to Fashion” or from “Farm to Market” through value addition. (www.ficota.org ) The focus is on adapting ecosystems for Africa`s industrialization in the textiles industry.

    The plurality, multi-culturalism and multidimensionality of ACC, provides a structure with the unique capacity for institutions and stakeholders to create adaptive business models, based on sector needs of partners. The purpose is to facilitate harmonious growth with efficient ecosystems, to implement attainable goals, through value addition, in local value and supply chains.

    Accolades and Publications:

    2016, OAALAW won the “AI African Award of Excellence.

    2018, Recognized amongst 100 of the finest professional Women in a book titled “Women Pioneer In Dispute Resolutions” by Arbitral Women.

    2019 Published an article on IP Funding: A Key to Entrepreneurial Development Through IP Asset Ownership in Africa in the London based “Women's IP Magazine

    2020/21, Profiled in the Magazine “Rising Women”.

    2023, Appointed Member of the International Cotton Advisory Committee/Private Sector Advisory Committee (PSAC)

    2023, she was nominated as Executive member of the African Private Sector Summit. (APSS)

    2024 she organized the 3rd Edition of the International Forum for Cotton, Textiles, Accessories & Fashion (FICOTA) in the sea site Ocean city, of Kribi, Cameroon.

    2025, she published an article on “The Mystery, Power, Purpose and Ownership of Talent & Knowledge” in the London based “Women's IP Magazine”

    She was nominated and ranked as the No. 6 in the Policy and Advocacy category for the Top 100 Influential Women Leaders in IP Law.

    She is a current member of several association International Trademark Association (INTA), American Bar Association, Arbitral Women, Association of OAPI IP Agents, (AMOAPI), Foundation for the Promotion of Inventors ,Innovators  (FPI), Maman Eucharist du Mont Febe (MEMO) African Private Summit (APPSS), Africa US international Chamber of Commerce and Industry (AfUSA)  ACC and other

    She enjoys travelling, music, sports, praying, and supporting charities.

     

    Besim Özek

    Strategy & Business Development Director

    Following his graduation from Tarsus American College and Cukurova University Mechanical Engineering, he has taken a large and vital business role in Logistics and Purchasing Departments for over 20 years.

    He is now Strategy and Business Development  Director in BOSSA which is one of the largest Denim Producers is Turkey. He has been very involved in Sustainable Textile Production.

    He had been active presenting the company in;

    • Turkish Exporters Assembly, ITHIB (Member of Board)
    • Turkish Cotton Textile Manufacturer ‘s Union (Member of Board)
    • Turkish National Cotton Council (Member of Board)
    • The Union of Chambers and Commodity, Turkish Textile Industry Assembly

    Twitter Besim Ozek:      @besimozek

    Linkedin Besim Ozek:    besim-ozek

    SIDDHARTHA RAJAGOPAL, Executive Director – TEXPROCIL

    Dr. Siddhartha Rajagopal is the Executive Director of the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL). He holds a PhD in Management Studies and has nearly four decades of experience in international trade in textiles and clothing.

    Over his career, he has worked across the entire textile value chain—from fibre to fashion—and has been part of several Government of India delegations and negotiating groups, including bilateral engagements with the USA, the European Union, and consultations at the WTO.

    Dr. Rajagopal has played a key role in developing export promotion schemes, market development strategies, and organizing India’s participation in international textile exhibitions and trade delegations. He is currently involved in the implementation of the “Kasturi Cotton India” project in collaboration with the Cotton Corporation of India and the Ministry of Textiles.

    Padmini Singla, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India

    Padmini Singla is a career civil servant from India with over two decades of leadership roles in public administration. Currently serving as the Joint Secretary in the Ministry of Textiles, she spearheads the strategic development and policy framework for Natural Fibres, including Cotton.

    An alumna of Delhi School of Economics, she holds an Executive Master’s from EPFL, Switzerland.