35th Meeting of the Committee on CSITC

35th Meeting of the Committee on Commercial Standardization of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC)

September 29, 9:00 to 10:30 Hrs

Tashkent, Uzbekistan: In-Person and Hybrid

Chaired By: Dr Marinus (René) van der Sluijs

The Committee on Commercial Standardization of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC) conducted its 35th meeting on Sunday, 29th September 2024, in-person and virtually on the sidelines of the 82nd Plenary Meeting of International Cotton Advisory Committee, Tashkent, Uzbekistan under the leadership of Dr Marinus (René) van der Sluijs.

Members Present:

  1. Dr Marinus (René) van der Sluijs, Chair CSITC, Principal Consultant, Textile Technical Services, Australia
  2. Dr Mohammed Negm, Head of Spinning Research Department, Cotton Research Institute, Egypt
  3. Prof Suzan Husseini Sanad, Cotton Research Institute, Egypt
  4. Mr Axel Drieling, Senior Cotton Manager and Member of Executive Board, FaserInstitut Bremen, Germany
  5. Prof Iwona Frydrych, Vice President, Gdynia Cotton Association, Poland
  6. Mr Peter Wakefield, Managing Director, Wakefield Inspection Services and Chair, Private Sector Advisory Council, ICAC, International Organization, Taiwan
  7. Mr Fatih Dogan, Vice President, Mediterranean Textile and Raw Materials Exporters Associations, Türkiye
  8. Mr Gert Klindt, Quality Control Manager, Cotton South Africa, South Africa (online)
  9. Dr Christopher Delhom, Research Leader, USDA, USA (online)
  10. Dr Müge Ekizoglu, General Manager, Izmir Commodity Exchange Laboratory, Türkiye (online)

Observers:

  1. Mr Jigar Raval, Delegate India
  2. Dr Monali Prajapati, Delegate India
  3. Mr Jens Wirth, Bremer Baumwollboerse, Germany
  4. Mr Jerzy Kotwas, Gdynia Cotton Association, Poland
  5. Mr Shun Kudo, Japan Cotton Traders Association, Japan
  6. Mr Mirza Khanov, UPL Limited, Uzbekistan
  7. Mr Nurlan Akhmetov, UPL Limited, Uzbekistan

ICAC Secretariat:

  1. Mr Kanwar Usman, Head of Textiles, ICAC

Members Not Present:

  1. Ms Mariana Carfagnini, Coordinator of the Textile Physical Unit of the Center for Textile Research, Argentina
  2. Mr Ramiro Casoliba, Director Del Centro Intl., Argentina
  3. Mr Gregory Parle, Classing Office Manager, Australian Food & Fibre, Australia
  4. Eng. Mohamed Khalil Khedr, Chairman CATGO – Cotton Arbitration & Testing General Organization, Egypt
  5. Dr Jean Paul Gourlot, Cirad Persyst, France (Retired and will be replaced)
  6. Ms Gretchen Deatherage, Director Standardization, USDA, USA
  7. Dr Urania Kechagia, Consultant, Cotton and Industrial Plants Institute, Greece (Retired and will be replaced)
  8. Mr Pradeep Kumar, Chairman cum Managing Director, Cotton Corporation of India, India
  9. Mr Patrick Ilukat, Cotton Development Organization, Uganda
  10. Mr Deninson Bezerra dos Santos, Quality Specialist ABRAPA, Brazil
  11. Mr Roberto Vieira Cabral, Cotton Coordinator, OLAM, Brazil

The Chair welcomed all participants, both those attending in person and those joining online. Following this, each participant introduced themselves.

Agenda Item 1: Adoption of the Agenda

The agenda was presented and approved by the Members.

Agenda Item 2: Approval of the Minutes of the 34th Meeting held on March 18th, 2024, on the sidelines of the 37th International Bremen Conference, Germany

The Chair provided a brief overview of the minutes from the 34th meeting of the Committee on Commercial Standardization of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC), which was held on March 18, 2024, during the 37th International Cotton Conference in Bremen, Germany. It was noted that the minutes had already been circulated to members and were available on the ICAC website. After a summary by the Chair, the Members approved the minutes.

During the review of the previous meeting minutes, Mr. Jigar Raval, the Indian delegate offered his support in enhancing membership and engagement from India, particularly among spinning mills, which aligns with CSITC’s priority of expanding participation. The Chair and the Members appreciated his offer.

Agenda Item 3: General Correspondence

The Chair discussed the ongoing efforts to expand participation in the CSITC Round Trials, with a particular focus on spinning mills. He mentioned outreach initiatives with key organizations, including the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) and the International Cotton Association (ICA). Additionally, the Chair highlighted the collaborative development of an informative CSITC brochure, which was made possible through the contributions of Mr Mike McCue, Mr Axel Drieling, and Mr Peter Wakefield.

Emphasizing the importance of engaging with international federations and associations, the Chair invited suggestions for additional platforms or organizations where CSITC could enhance its visibility. Mr Peter Wakefield, Chair of the Private Sector Advisory Council (PSAC), noted potential opportunities with various international cotton associations, such as the Cotton Association of India, and extended PSAC’s support for outreach efforts.

Mr Jigar Raval, the Indian delegate proposed leveraging global textile exhibitions, such as Bharat Tex in India, as well as others in the US, EU and other countries, to promote CSITC’s activities to a broader audience. These events provide valuable opportunities to engage with stakeholders across the supply chain, many of whom may not be fully aware of CSITC’s impactful work. The Chair welcomed these suggestions, highlighting their significance for CSITC’s growth and visibility.

Reflecting on past experiences, the Chair shared his positive impression of Bharat Tex, describing it as an exceptional event. He also mentioned the upcoming Bharat Tex scheduled in February 2025, emphasizing its potential as a key platform for further promoting CSITC’s initiatives.

Agenda Item 4: Welcome to the New Members to the Committee on CSITC

The Chair introduced new members to CSITC, including recent additions from United States, South Africa, Turkey, and Brazil. The Chair noted that the nomination and approval process involves recommendations by the Chair and ICAC Secretariat, followed by approval from the Standing Committee of ICAC member countries.

The Chair shared CSITC’s adoption of a structured approach to member responsibilities inspired by PSAC, a committee chaired by Mr Peter Wakefield. This approach defines clear roles and responsibilities, encouraging active participation. The Chair noted that while CSITC values long-standing members, some have become less active due to retirement or reduced industry involvement. To maintain a vibrant Committee, the Chair proposed replacing inactive members with professionally active individuals.

New Members included:

  1. Mr Gert Klindt, Quality Control Manager, Cotton South Africa, South Africa
  2. Dr Christopher Delhom, Research Leader, USDA, USA
  3. Mr Deninson Bezerra dos Santos, Quality Specialist, ABRAPA, Brazil
  4. Mr Roberto Vieira Cabral, Cotton Coordinator, OLAM, Brazil
  5. Dr Müge Ekizoglu, General Manager, Izmir Commodity Exchange Laboratory, Turkey

The Chair said that these new members would bring fresh perspectives and help rejuvenate CSITC’s activities, strengthening its role and impact.

Agenda item 5: New Logo

The Chair said that the new logo symbolized the committee’s evolution from its original designation as a “Task Force” to a “Committee.” Initially, “Task Force” reflected CSITC’s need for decisive action when it was founded in 2003. However, as the organization’s role has developed, the “Committee” better aligns with its collaborative approach.

The new logo, designed to enhance CSITC’s visibility and industry presence, will be used in all future communications and presentations.

Agenda Item 6: Latest on Round Trial Results and Comparisons by Mr. Axel Drieling

Mr. Axel Drieling began his presentation by detailing the primary activity of the CSITC, the Round Trials, which are conducted quarterly. In each round, four cotton samples are tested thirty times across various laboratories in five days. The objective is to evaluate six key properties that contribute to each laboratory’s performance grade. These properties include Micronaire (Mic), Strength (g/tex), Upper Half Mean Length (UHML), Length Uniformity, Reflectance Degree (Rd), and Yellowness (+b). Additionally, four properties: Trash Count and %, Area, Short Fiber Index, and Maturity – are analyzed for informational purposes but do not impact on the overall laboratory evaluation.

Mr. Drieling emphasized that the Round Trials are a collaborative effort between the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), Faserinstitut, and the USDA Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS), underscoring the comprehensive and rigorous approach taken to ensure the reliability and consistency of cotton testing across global laboratories.

Mr Drieling shared the results from the 2024-2 round trial, completed in June, and noted that the evaluation of the 2024-3 round trial was still ongoing. He explained the analysis process, which involves examining the deviation between each laboratory’s results and the average results from all participating instruments. This deviation is calculated into an average absolute deviation and converted into a scaled evaluation score, typically ranging from 0.2 to 1.0, where an ideal score of zero indicates no deviation.

He highlighted that the evaluation focuses on six key properties, with the average of these evaluations providing the overall performance score. Typical scores range from 0.2 to 0.7. This Overall Evaluation Result (OER) offers a single value that reflects how closely an instrument’s results align with the true results, presenting laboratories with an opportunity to enhance their accuracy.

The data presented showed three key participation metrics: sample sets purchased, laboratories submitting results, and the number of instruments evaluated. He noted a record high of 164 instruments tested in the latest round trial, surpassing the previous peak of 160 in 2012. However, this increase reflects a higher number of instruments per laboratory rather than an increase in the number of laboratories. Brazil stood out as an example, where all laboratories in the cotton production sector are mandated to participate, with each laboratory utilizing all available instruments.

Mr Drieling highlighted the historical development of CSITC, noting that after its establishment in 2003 and the initiation of round trials in 2007, participation steadily increased as laboratories and countries recognized the program’s benefits. A significant shift occurred in 2012 when laboratories were required to pay for their participation, leading to a temporary stabilization in numbers. However, between 2018 and 2021, participation declined, and recent concerted efforts by the Chair, Faserinstitut, ICAC, and other members have successfully reversed this trend, resulting in renewed growth.

He further cited Brazil’s high participation rate as a model for other cotton-producing nations, demonstrating the positive outcomes of mandatory involvement in quality testing. He also highlighted Australia’s consistent commitment, particularly in promoting 100%HVItested cotton.

Additionally, the US was mentioned as another key player, underscoring the global importance of HVI testing in ensuring cotton quality.

Mr Peter Wakefield informed the committee that one of the main laboratories in Australia has recently transitioned from manual grading to 100% HVI color evaluation for the 2024 season. This shift highlights the growing importance of CSITC and the increased use of HVI machines, enhancing the reliability of cotton testing and reinforcing CSITC’s role in ensuring consistent quality.

Responding to an inquiry from Mr. Jigar Raval, the delegate from India, regarding government support in Brazil, Mr Drieling clarified that the initiatives in Brazil are driven by ABRAPA, the national cotton producers’ association, rather than the government. Since 2017, ABRAPA has implemented a comprehensive plan involving the establishment of central laboratories, training, and quality checks, resulting in significant progress and improved quality outcomes. Further, the Chair highlighted Australia’s consistent participation, with its industry-led initiative ensuring 100% HVI testing across three classing facilities and eighteen instruments. This self-funded approach by the Cotton Classers Association of Australia guarantees accurate and reliable results, providing confidence in buyers and reinforcing the importance of high-quality testing. Participants agreed that these success stories could serve as a valuable case study for other countries to promote awareness and learning.

Mr Drieling presented an analysis of annual participation trends, noting that while the average participation in the four annual round trials has remained stable in terms of laboratories and sample sets, the number of participating instruments has increased since 2021. This growth in instrument participation suggests a strengthening commitment to CSITC standards.

He then reviewed the overall evaluation results, explaining that a higher evaluation score indicates poorer performance, with the ideal score being zero. Although laboratories do not achieve zero deviation, the average score has improved significantly over time. Initially, the average evaluation score was around 0.5, but as more laboratories joined and learned from participation, this score gradually stabilized. Since 2011–2012, laboratories have shown consistent improvement, leading to an overall evaluation score reduction to 0.35. This improvement represents a 35% decrease in variation, thereby reducing the risk of quality claims.

Recent results have shown slight fluctuations, indicating a likely upward trend in evaluation scores. However, he interpreted this as part of a broader stable trend, with a constant overall level around 0.35 since 2018. He emphasized that participating laboratories continue to learn and enhance their performance, even if progress is gradual.

To further illustrate these evaluation trends, he shared graphs showing that the best-performing laboratories have consistently achieved evaluation scores between 0.15 and 0.2 since 2007, although the specific instruments achieving these scores vary. He noted that a score of 0.2 to 0.25 is required to be among the top 10% of laboratories, while a score between 0.25 and 0.3 places a laboratory in the top 25%.

Mr Drieling explained that to be classified among the top 50% of instruments, a laboratory’s evaluation score should ideally fall around the median line, which has improved over time from 0.5 to 0.35. He noted that previously, a score of 0.5 would suffice to rank among the top half of participating laboratories, but now a score closer to 0.45 is required, reflecting significant quality improvement.

When asked about a recent slight increase in evaluation scores, he suggested it might be due to the increase in instruments or simply random variation. He reassured the participants that the best laboratories continue to perform exceptionally well, with the top 10% consistently achieving high standards, despite minor fluctuations. He attributed the variability in results primarily to three factors: instrument, operator, and the environment.

Further, Mr. Drieling addressed improvements in HVI’s, particularly noting advancements from the HVI 900 to the HVI 1000 and in Premier models. He observed a positive impact from these newer models, which offer more automated processes and reduce human error, thus yielding more uniform results.

The detailed analysis of evaluation results showed average scores across various properties, indicating steady improvement over the years. For the most recent round trials, scores demonstrated notable progress compared to earlier averages, with Micronaire at 0.4, Strength at 0.3, Length at 0.34, Uniformity at 0.3, Color Rd at 0.24, and Color +b at 0.46. These results highlight consistent performance and improvements in each measured property, with certain properties like Color Rd consistently showing slightly better scores due to calculation methods.

Mr Axel provided an overview of the types of instruments participating in the latest CSITC round trial , where 164 instruments were evaluated. He highlighted that the HVI 1000 remains the dominant model, with 78% of the participating instruments, reflecting an industry shift toward more advanced testing equipment. Comparatively, only two HVI 900 units and a few older models, such as Premier R1 and R2, participated, marking a decline from 2012 when HVI 1000 represented only 47% of instruments, and HVI 900 accounted for 32%.

Mr Drieling explained that each instrument receives a general evaluation report which includes the median, and now added best 10%, 25%, 50%, and 75%. Further, he presented a new report format that shows each instrument’s performance relative to others, making it easier for laboratories to understand their standing. This format encourages laboratories to identify areas for improvement based on specific benchmarks.

Additionally, he introduced a new certificate for participating laboratories Who will now receive a certificate that summarizes their performance without revealing specific details to the public, maintaining anonymity. This certificate can be shared with clients at the laboratory’s discretion to build confidence in testing quality. Unlike some countries, such as Australia, where results are openly shared across the industry, individual laboratories in other regions can choose to keep their results private. He highlighted that this approach to reporting and certification allows laboratories to focus on continuous improvement while maintaining confidentiality.

Mr Wakefield shared how commercial laboratories leverage CSITC results to attract clients by providing a copy of their performance results, highlighting their ranking within the top percentile categories. He highlighted that this transparency reassures clients about the quality and reliability of the laboratory’s testing capabilities.

Mr Drieling then discussed the participation status of Uzbekistan, once a prominent cotton producer, which currently has no laboratories participating in CSITC. The reasons for this decline could be attributed to changes in the cotton industry structure, where most of Uzbekistan’s cotton is now consumed domestically within clusters, reducing the need for external quality verification.

He also shared insights into the cost of operating an HVI laboratory, noting that the purchase of an HVI instrument alone costs approximately $250,000 over ten years, amounting to about $25,000 per year. Additional costs include staff, energy for conditioning, quality management, maintenance, and other operational expenses, totaling over $100,000 annually. However, the annual CSITC round trial participation fee of $1,300 is only about 1% of the total operational cost, providing significant benefits by reducing claim risks and boosting credibility.

The discussion then shifted to the participation of spinning mills in CSITC. Mr Drieling explained that while spinning mills do participate, their proportion remains lower compared to cotton production and classing laboratories, which make up nearly 80% of participants. Instrument manufacturers comprised about 4%, and spinning mills represent around 9%. A member inquired about the performance of spinning mill laboratories compared to cotton production labs, noting that spinning mills might not face the same risk of claims related to fiber quality since their primary concern is yarn quality.

The conversation then turned to the impact of fiber quality on spinning mill profitability. The Chair, drawing on his years of experience in the textile industry, emphasized that a spinning mill’s profitability hinges primarily on the quality and cost of raw materials. Proper bale management and adherence to control limits are critical in maximizing returns. Given the tight profit margins of around 2-3% in spinning mills, purchasing cotton within specific tolerances and blending it effectively are essential to optimizing performance and achieving profitability. The Chair said that selecting the right cotton quality from the start is essential to efficient production and maintaining low waste, underscoring the vital role of quality testing in the supply chain.

Mr Jigar Raval asked if there were scientific studies quantifying the relationship between fiber quality and profit margins, which would be valuable in demonstrating the financial benefits of quality control to spinners. It was noted that while some studies have been conducted, most are general and lack specific, quantifiable data that would resonate strongly with spinning mills.

The Chair highlighted on the importance of variability control in fiber parameters. If a mill is set to process 28-millimeter fiber, variation in fiber length can lead to inefficiencies. Therefore, achieving consistency in fiber properties is crucial for optimizing machine performance and minimizing waste.

This led to a discussion on the percentage of bales tested and Mr Wakefield emphasized that higher sampling percentages, ideally 100%, allow for more precise selection and blending of bales, reducing variation. Lower sampling rates (e.g., 1-5%) limit the ability to control quality and consistency, impacting overall mill performance.

Mr Jens proposed conducting a collaborative study with government and corporate support to develop empirical data that illustrates the link between better fiber testing and spinning profitability.

The Chair and the members expressed deep appreciation for the presentation, praising the thorough data, clarity, and summarized delivery.

Agenda Item 7: Correspondence from the Chair to Spinning Companies. How do we engage them and persuade them to participate? Free samples? Agent?

The Chair initiated a discussion on strategies to engage and encourage spinning companies to participate in CSITC. Expanding CSITC’s membership and participation was a central theme, with a focus on targeting countries with underrepresented spinning sectors, such as Vietnam, India, Indonesia, and Mexico etc. Members underscored the importance of structured data to highlight the financial benefits of quality control and certified testing, which could drive greater participation among spinners. While no specific country was initially prioritized, India emerged as a promising target due to its large cotton production and the potential for government-supported quality improvement initiatives. With several states producing cotton on a significant scale, promoting CSITC’s testing services in India could add considerable value to both domestic production and export markets.

The idea of utilizing agents to promote CSITC’s services to spinning mills was discussed. Mr Wakefield highlighted that agents who regularly interact with spinners to sell cotton could be instrumental in raising awareness about the advantages of accurate and current laboratory testing. Given that agents often communicate directly with the owners of spinning mills – who play a key role in purchasing decisions, they can significantly influence the adoption of reliable testing facilities, which in turn helps reduce quality claims. It was suggested that CSITC might organize a meeting with a group of agents to demonstrate how their advocacy could support the industry by reducing quality issues for clients. Although monetary incentives for agents may be minimal, the real value lies in educating them on how improved testing enhances cotton quality reliability, benefiting both buyers and sellers.

Agenda Item 8: Update of CSITC Guide

The Chair emphasized the importance of this guide for laboratories and industry professionals, as it offers comprehensive guidance on achieving accurate and consistent testing results and informed that CSITC Guide is in process of revision.

Agenda Item 9: Any other item with the permission of the Chair

There was no additional item.

The Chair thanked all participants for their contributions and looked forward to continued engagement.

Dr Mansurbek Muminov is a senior scientist at the Scientific Research Institute of Fiber Crops in Uzbekistan. His efforts have focused on basic cotton ginning and spinning, and he has authored more than 10 comprehensive research papers in those areas.

 

Dr. Mansurbek Mo'minov is the Deputy Director for Scientific Affairs and Innovation at the Scientific Research Institute of Fiber Crops in Uzbekistan.

Dr. Keshav R. Kranthi, Ph.D is the Chief Scientist at the International Cotton Advisory Com­mittee (ICAC), Washington, DC. Before joining the ICAC, he served as the Director of the Central Institute for Cotton Research (CICR) in Nagpur, India, from 2008 to 2017. Dr. Kranthi has thirty-five years of experience as a cotton scientist. He received a gold medal in his Ph.D. in 1991 and has been honored with more than a dozen awards, including the Best CPP Program Award for Research Leadership by the Renewable Natural Resources Research International, UK; the ICAC Researcher of the Year Award in 2009; the Vasantrao Naik Smruti Pratisthan Award in 2004; the ICAR National Award for Leader of Best Team Research in 2006; Fellow of the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences in 2009; the ISCI Recognition Award in 2010; Krishi Gaurav Award in 2010; Bhumi Nirman Award in 2011; ISCI Fellow in 2017; the Plant Protection Recognition Award in 2016 by the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences; Suresh Kotak Global Cotton Award in 2023 and the CRDA life time achievement Award in 2024. Dr. Kranthi has four patents granted in South Africa, Mexico, China, and Uzbekistan, and six patent applications in India. He has published more than 100 peer-reviewed research papers, 20 books/handbooks/manuals, 17 book chapters, and more than 50 popular articles. Dr. Kranthi has presented invited talks and conducted training sessions in more than 40 countries. His research citations are in excess of 6,500. As the chief principal investigator, he coordinated and led more than 35 externally funded international collaboration research projects.

Dr. Charudatta Mayee, Ph.D is a distinguished Indian agricultural scientist and administrator with over five decades of contributions to Indian agriculture. Dr. Mayee currently serves as Adjunct Professor at IARI, New Delhi, and several ICAR institutions and universities. Dr Mayee served as Vice Chancellor of MAU Parbhani, Director of the Central Institute for Cotton Research (ICAR-CICR), Nagpur, and Agriculture Commissioner for the Government of India. Dr Mayee served as Vice President of the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences (NAAS) India. Dr. C.D. Mayee has received numerous accolades spanning five decades, recognizing his transformative contributions to agricultural science. He is an Alexander von Humboldt Fellow and has received lifetime achievement awards from multiple institutions. His early career was marked by the Prof. M.J. Narasimhan Academic Award (1974) and V.P. Gokhale Award (1998), followed by national honors like the Vasantrao Naik Krishi Award (2002), ICAR Outstanding Team Research Award (2003), and Dr. B. Vishwanath Award (2005). He received Lifetime Achievement Awards from the Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (2008), National Academy of Agricultural Sciences (2011), and Indian Phytopathological Society (2017), among others. Four universities conferred Honorary Doctorates (D.Sc.) for his pioneering work (2009–2023). Recent distinctions include the  Best Cotton Scientist Award (2022, Cotton Association of India), Krishi Maharshi for Cotton R&D (2024) and the winner of the ICAC Researcher of the Year Award 2025.

Dr. Khalid Mahmood is the Co-Founder of SAWiE, where he has been instrumental in developing digital farm advisory and farm data platforms supporting over 10,000 farmers in Pakistan, improving traceability and transparency across agricultural supply chains. He is leading the development of first-mile traceability systems and the TRUE Cotton platform, connecting farmers with sustainable global textile supply chains.

He also serves as Head of Partnerships at the British Society of Soil Science (BSSS), where he leads strategic collaborations to position soil health as a critical climate mitigation solution, linking soil management with carbon sequestration, water quality, air quality, and biodiversity restoration.

Trained as an Agricultural Economist (PhD, University of Göttingen, Germany), Dr. Mahmood combines strong scientific expertise with practical innovation to address global challenges in food security, ESG reporting, climate resilience, and sustainable agriculture.

His past work includes leadership in research programs on carbon reduction in rice and livestock systems, and collaboration with leading institutions such as Rothamsted Research, AHDB UK, and the Thünen Institute (Germany).

Dr. Mahmood is a Fellow of the Higher Education Academy (UK) and has contributed to international research and knowledge networks including IFCN and UPSIGN.

Recognized among the Net Zero 50 Leaders, he continues to advance international partnerships that place soil at the centre of regenerative agriculture, natural capital development, and ecosystem restoration.

 

Dr Olivier Zieschank studied Management at the university of Lausanne, where he graduated in 2005. Until 2010, he worked in a Swiss-based start-up that specialized in negotiating cell tower lease agreements, where he became associate director. In 2010, he returned to university and studied applied economics in Neuchatel, Switzerland. He wrote his PhD in Economics at the University of Freiberg, Germany, where he developed a theory of organization. Mr Zieschank was appointed Economist at the ITMF in August 2017 and became director in January 2021.

Ashwin Chandran holds a Bachelors Degree in Textile Technology from UMIST, UK and a Masters degree in Business Administration from the University of Illinois, USA.

He is currently the Chairman of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) and it’s subsidiary - Cotton Development and Research Association – CITI CDRA. CITI-CDRA works with Indian cotton farmers and collaborates with government bodies and research institutions to improve cotton productivity, promote farmer welfare and expand the knowledge of Indian cotton farmers on the subjects of sustainability, traceability and meeting compliance and certification requirements.

He is the Chairman & Managing Director of Precot Limited, a manufacturer of yarns, threads and cotton based non-woven hygiene products.

He is the Chairman of the Indian Textile Sector Skill Council, a member of the Council of Administration of The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL) and is a past Chairman of the Southern India Mills Association (SIMA).

Mr. Shreyans Gupta is an officer of the Indian Revenue Service (IRS), currently serving as First Secretary at the Embassy of India in Washington D.C. In his current role, he oversees critical portfolios within the Income-tax Overseas Unit (ITOU) and the Commerce Wing, facilitating bilateral and multilateral cooperation.

Throughout his career, Mr. Gupta has held diverse positions involving both the implementation and policy-making aspects of Indian taxation. His expertise spans complex tax audits, financial and criminal investigations, International Taxation and administration of core IT platforms/infrastructure. He has also served as a delegate of India to various international tax organizations, contributing to high-level discourse on global tax cooperation frameworks

Eric Trachtenberg is the Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC).

Before coming to ICAC, he oversaw more than $700 million in programs to improve food security, support agricultural transformation, and strengthen land productivity at the U.S. Millennium Challenge Corporation (MCC).

His earlier background includes service with USDA’s Foreign Agricultural Service (FAS) in the Russian Federation, China, and Taiwan where he resolved agricultural market access issues totaling more than $1.3 billion, designed and led investment facilitation initiatives that generated more than $10 billion in new activity, and oversaw export development programs worth $10 million.

He has a Masters in Agricultural Economics from Michigan State University, a Masters in Public Administration from the University of Southern California, and Bachelors degrees in Government and Economics from Cornell University.

Pia Terasa joined the textile machinery manufacturer Saurer over 25 years ago. She is responsible for marketing and communications at the group level. Coming originally from a non-textile background, market intelligence and business development have played major roles throughout her career. Her current main “hobby” is closely monitoring development of the textile recycling industry and circular economy.

Dr. Md. Fakhre Alam Ibne Tabib is the former Executive Director of the Cotton Development Board of Bangladesh, with over 32 years of experience in cotton production, research, and development. He has demonstrated strong leadership and communication skills in engaging with national and international stakeholders in the cotton sector.

His expertise spans Integrated Pest Management (IPM), Integrated Crop Management (ICM), and Good Agricultural Practices (GAP) with a focus on sustainable, regenerative, and organic cotton production. His research interests include high-density planting systems, planting geometry, intercropping, and innovative cropping patterns. Dr. Tabib is also proficient in ICT applications, project planning and monitoring, and scientific report writing.

Dr. Tabib has played a significant leadership role within the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), serving as Vice-Chair (2023–2024) and Chair (2024–2025) of its Standing Committee. The ICAC is an association of governments of cotton-producing, consuming, and trading countries, recognized by the United Nations as the international commodity body for cotton and related products.

In addition, he serves as Vice President of the Ecological Society of Bangladesh and contributes actively to the executive bodies of other social and scientific organizations. He earned his Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) in Cotton Cropping Systems in 2013.

Dr. Tabib has participated in numerous international programs, conferences, and study visits related to cotton across countries including the USA, Türkiye, Uzbekistan, India, Egypt, the Philippines, South Korea, and Malaysia. He has published 12 scientific papers and several articles on cotton in reputed national and international journals and magazines. He is also an active member of multiple professional associations and networks worldwide.

Dr. Elsie Sia Kanza is the current Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the United Republic of Tanzania to the United States of America and Mexico. Prior to that role, Ambassador Kanza served as Special Advisor to the President of the World Economic Forum, and, before that, Head of Africa and Member of Executive Committee for 10 years championing growth and development in Africa leveraging public private collaboration. In 2015, She was awarded a Doctorate in Business Administration (honoris causa) by the University of Strathclyde for the transformative impact achieved in Africa.

Ambassador Kanza also served in the government for a decade and a half as economic advisor to the President of the United Republic of Tanzania, as well as in various capacities with the Ministry of Finance and Central Bank of Tanzania.

In 2008, Ambassador Kanza became an Archbishop Tutu Leadership Fellow, and in 2011 a WEF Young Global Leader. She was also nominated as a Richard von Weizsacker Fellow and highlighted as one of Africa’s 50 most powerful women by Forbes in 2020. Additionally, she has served on various boards, including those of the African Leadership Institute - South Africa, Mercy Corps Europe, The Nature Conservancy Africa Council, and the Uongozi Institute.

Ambassador Kanza obtained a Bachelor’s degree from the United States International University – Africa in Business Administration and later graduated with a Master's degree in finance from the University of Strathclyde, United Kingdom and an MA in Development Economics, Center for Development Economics, Williams College, USA.

Alison Ward has over 30 years of international experience in sustainability and corporate affairs. Alison is the CEO of CottonConnect, where she leads a team of over 100 employees, impacting the lives of over 800,000 cotton farmers in India, China, Pakistan, Turkey, Egypt and Bangladesh.  Under Alison’s leadership the organization: drives supply chain transparency connecting sustainable fibres from farm to store; focuses on the rights and skills of women in supply chains through pioneering gender programmes; and continues to develop innovations at a farm level. She leads cotton strategies and programmes for global brands and retailers.

Previously Alison worked with Mondelez International and Kraft Foods and was the Global Head of Corporate Responsibility at Cadbury.

With a mission to drive scalable change, Alison served as a Member of the Sustainable Cotton Steering Committee for Textile Exchange.  She sat on the Sustainability Advisory Committee for the London Olympic Games and has been a Coach and Mentor to commercial teams at WWF and the Ethical Trade Initiative. Alison is also a Life fellow of the RSA- Royal Society of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce.

Alison has completed the Senior Executive Programme at Ashridge Business School and the Business & Sustainability Programme at the Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership. She holds a BA Hons in English from the University of Birmingham.

 

 

With more than 43 years of experience in textiles and fibre processing, Marinus has extensive commercial knowledge of all facets of the cotton production pipeline from field to fabric, specialising in yarn manufacturing and quality. Amongst others, he is a certified quality expert and is the current chair of ICAC’s Task Force for the Commercial Standardisation of Instrument Testing of Cotton. He is also an executive member of the Australian Cotton Ginners Association and the ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods. Marinus is also a member of the ITMF Spinners Committee and the Cotton Classing Association of Australia, and is the Australian fibre quality technical expert.
He has authored many articles and technical reports and has been invited to present at numerous domestic and international conferences. He has managed to secure a large and diverse number of projects, service agreements, and commission cotton textile processing work. He has won many awards, including the prestigious Australian Cotton Researcher of the Year Award.

Navdeep Singh Sodhi began his career at India’s largest cotton-textile company and has 35+ years of international experience in mill operations and management consulting. His expertise includes strategic policy, technology and international trade and investment. With experience in over 50 countries, he advises an international clientele and has conducted multiple international studies on the cotton-textile value chain. These include the global benchmarking study to evaluate the competitiveness of India’s textile industry for the Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL). He contributed to the formulation of the perspective plan for the Indian textile engineering industry (TEI). Mr Sodhi has been supporting the campaign for transformation of cotton in C-4 Countries + Côte d’Ivoire in West Africa and led the flagship study in West Africa commissioned by IFC (World Bank Group) that was recently presented at the World Cotton Day 2023 commemorated under the auspices of UNIDO in Vienna. Mr Sodhi is a partner with Gherzi Textil Organisation, Switzerland, and a Chartered Fellow (C.Text FTI) of the Textile Institute in Manchester, England.

Experienced professional with over 42 years of expertise in textile plant management, business establishment, plant turnaround, managing turnkey projects and overseeing large textile operations across three continents. Successfully initiated new factories in Asia, Africa, the Middle East, and North America. Has been business head responsible for P&L of large textile operation in Canada and USA.

Holds a Bachelor’s degree in Textile Technology from PSG College of Technology, India.

Key areas of expertise include:

  • Turnkey project management
  • Turnaround of large textile plants in diverse geographical locations
  • Establishment and management of businesses in various regions
  • Strategic, financial, and marketing planning and execution for textile plants
  • Product development
  • Customer relationship management

Name: Mary Concilia Anchang
Company: Onambele Anchang & Associates
Country: Cameroon
Position: Managing Partner
Website: www.oaalawfirm.com

Executive Chair

The African Chamber of Trade and Commerce ACC

Email: oaalawpartners2@gmail.com, africanchambernetwork@gmail.com

Websites www.africanchamber-abo.org  www.ficota.org

Called to the Cameroon Bar in 1993, Barrister Mary Concilia Anchang epse Onambele, is the managing partner at Onambele Anchang & Associates (OAALAW). She demonstrates consistency and dedication in 32 years of National and international legal work and advocacy. Renown for her legal prowess, her ability to delve into unconventional and controversial topics, has earned her access to several platforms at all levels, in the society. In her persuasive urge to address stubborn societal problems in the continent, she has created several tools to express her opinion and drive policy in a wide range of business sectors. She addresses legal, social and economic problems, with the perspective to contribute in crafting novel schemes, policies and practices to oblige relevance and impact for the welfare and livelihood of communities.

Her law practice, a full-service corporate law firm, serves a broad range of businesses in various industry sectors. Client satisfaction is pivotal at OAALA. Her firm is one of the most sought-after contemporary lawyers in the continent of Africa. Passionate, engaging and focus driven, her peers revere her resolve to address challenging matters in a friendly and dialogue mode. Her brilliance, and keen eye for detail earns great recognition from her clients.

She is the pioneer African IP lawyer, accredited with the African organization of Intellectual & Industrial property (OAPI) with jurisdiction in 17 countries since 1994.

In 1998, curious and concerned about Africa`s significant dependence on foreign intellectual property assets and imports of goods and services into the continent, she founded; “The Foundation for the Promotion of Inventions, Innovations, and Artistic Designs” (FPI) to promote research and development for African discoveries, talents, traditional Knowledge and know-how for validation of discoveries for local use and exports to global markets.

Retained in 1998, to advise the Cameroon Association of Inventors and Innovators, she represented a medicinal cure for hepatitis, known under the trademark ''HEPASOR,” at d the International Exhibition Fair (INPEX) in 1999 in Pittsburgh, where FPI met with Dr. Nakammatz, the renown Japanese inventor of Viagra.

Then followed, the BBC Tomorrow’s World London Exhibition Fair in 1999, where FPI received an award from Mr. John Trevors, the renowned British inventor of the “Touch lamp” for her exhibitions.

From 2001 -2006, she accompanied one of Africa`s most revolutionary, controversial and nonconventional research initiatives in HIV /AIDS for therapeutic vaccines. This discovery, led by one of Africa`s most renown Professors, a Surgeon and international award price winner for research in the treatment of retrovirus for Burkitt’s Cancer, Sickle cell and HIV /AIDS. At a time when HIV/AIDs was ravaging lives in the Continent of Africa, she played a very compelling advocacy role at all fronts, while advising on the patentability, design and trademark ownership of the Vaccine process across the globe.

As Cofounder of the Cameroon National Committee of the International Chamber of Trade & Commerce (ICC Cameroon) in 2021, she stunned the continent, in 2006, with her nomination by the World Business Council, of The International Chamber of Trade & Commerce (ICC) Paris, as the pioneer, African, female country, court member, at the ICC International Court of Arbitration, since its creation in 2023. A mandate she held 4 years..

From 2004 -2014, as a member of the ICC Paris Intellectual property (IP) and the Arbitration commissions, she contributed with experts from governments, Civil society, multinationals, intra governmental organizations, institutions and businesses, through successive annual COP Conferences, to address policy reviews on the global climate change Agenda, that lead to the signing of, the Paris convention in 2015 on climate change.

Coupled with her legal practice, she founded & Chairs “The African Chamber of Trade & Commerce” (ACC), a non-profit and non-governmental, private sector chamber, aimed at using Public, Private Partnerships (PPPs) as a strategic tool to build sustainable and resilient infrastructures. The aim is to avoid duplication and stagnation for gainful entrepreneurial business practices.

Focal on the ACC agenda, is her advocacy for Tripartite Partnerships, that would engage expertise in, North/South, South/South and North/North business ventures. This should invariably contribute towards impactful and traceable development in local African communities. Through this initiative, she pledges to bring her expertise and knowledge into a project, she is deeply passionate about, and believes could shift paradigms in the  continent.. That is; “Institutional Advocacy for 'Africa's Socio-Economic Development."

Convinced of the need to promote IP asset ownership in Africa for improved wealth for entrepreneurial self-reliant opportunities, she believes validating African inventions and innovations, would pave the way for IP ownership and knowledge transfer for capital markets.

She has since 2018 created “The International Forum for cotton, textiles, accessories & Fashion (FICOTA) to address the African Cotton value chain and supply chains, as pivotal for talents to create wealth and job opportunities in Africa.

In prelude to the 4th edition of FICOTA, coming up in November 2026, in Cairo, Egypt, she will be Speaking at the ICAC 83rd plenary conference coming up in Tanzania in November 2025, on the role of National policies for African textiles.

Transforming Cotton into Textile and things in Africa is a vision, FICOTA promotes for optimization and industrialization of African cotton and Textiles. The game changer for. (www.africanchamber-abo.org) FICOTA is created to facilitate sustainability and optimization in the African cotton value and supply chains from “Seed to Fashion” or from “Farm to Market” through value addition. (www.ficota.org ) The focus is on adapting ecosystems for Africa`s industrialization in the textiles industry.

The plurality, multi-culturalism and multidimensionality of ACC, provides a structure with the unique capacity for institutions and stakeholders to create adaptive business models, based on sector needs of partners. The purpose is to facilitate harmonious growth with efficient ecosystems, to implement attainable goals, through value addition, in local value and supply chains.

Accolades and Publications:

2016, OAALAW won the “AI African Award of Excellence.

2018, Recognized amongst 100 of the finest professional Women in a book titled “Women Pioneer In Dispute Resolutions” by Arbitral Women.

2019 Published an article on IP Funding: A Key to Entrepreneurial Development Through IP Asset Ownership in Africa in the London based “Women's IP Magazine

2020/21, Profiled in the Magazine “Rising Women”.

2023, Appointed Member of the International Cotton Advisory Committee/Private Sector Advisory Committee (PSAC)

2023, she was nominated as Executive member of the African Private Sector Summit. (APSS)

2024 she organized the 3rd Edition of the International Forum for Cotton, Textiles, Accessories & Fashion (FICOTA) in the sea site Ocean city, of Kribi, Cameroon.

2025, she published an article on “The Mystery, Power, Purpose and Ownership of Talent & Knowledge” in the London based “Women's IP Magazine”

She was nominated and ranked as the No. 6 in the Policy and Advocacy category for the Top 100 Influential Women Leaders in IP Law.

She is a current member of several association International Trademark Association (INTA), American Bar Association, Arbitral Women, Association of OAPI IP Agents, (AMOAPI), Foundation for the Promotion of Inventors ,Innovators  (FPI), Maman Eucharist du Mont Febe (MEMO) African Private Summit (APPSS), Africa US international Chamber of Commerce and Industry (AfUSA)  ACC and other

She enjoys travelling, music, sports, praying, and supporting charities.

 

Besim Özek

Strategy & Business Development Director

Following his graduation from Tarsus American College and Cukurova University Mechanical Engineering, he has taken a large and vital business role in Logistics and Purchasing Departments for over 20 years.

He is now Strategy and Business Development  Director in BOSSA which is one of the largest Denim Producers is Turkey. He has been very involved in Sustainable Textile Production.

He had been active presenting the company in;

  • Turkish Exporters Assembly, ITHIB (Member of Board)
  • Turkish Cotton Textile Manufacturer ‘s Union (Member of Board)
  • Turkish National Cotton Council (Member of Board)
  • The Union of Chambers and Commodity, Turkish Textile Industry Assembly

Twitter Besim Ozek:      @besimozek

Linkedin Besim Ozek:    besim-ozek

SIDDHARTHA RAJAGOPAL, Executive Director – TEXPROCIL

Dr. Siddhartha Rajagopal is the Executive Director of the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL). He holds a PhD in Management Studies and has nearly four decades of experience in international trade in textiles and clothing.

Over his career, he has worked across the entire textile value chain—from fibre to fashion—and has been part of several Government of India delegations and negotiating groups, including bilateral engagements with the USA, the European Union, and consultations at the WTO.

Dr. Rajagopal has played a key role in developing export promotion schemes, market development strategies, and organizing India’s participation in international textile exhibitions and trade delegations. He is currently involved in the implementation of the “Kasturi Cotton India” project in collaboration with the Cotton Corporation of India and the Ministry of Textiles.

Padmini Singla, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India

Padmini Singla is a career civil servant from India with over two decades of leadership roles in public administration. Currently serving as the Joint Secretary in the Ministry of Textiles, she spearheads the strategic development and policy framework for Natural Fibres, including Cotton.

An alumna of Delhi School of Economics, she holds an Executive Master’s from EPFL, Switzerland.