FINAL MINUTES
45TH Meeting of the Expert Panel on Social, Environmental and Economic Performance of Cotton Production – SEEP
Sunday, October 22, 2017
Tashkent – Uzbekistan
Members:
Mr. Allan Williams (in the Chair)
Mr. Jens Soth, EU
Mr. Marcelo Paytas, Argentina
Mr. Kater Hake, USA
Mr. Michel Fok (for Bruno Bachelier)
Mr. Andrew Macdonald (for Savio Pereira)
Mr. Jean Pierre Guinko, Burkina Faso
Mr. Ta Dolphin Yu, Taiwan
Mr. Alan Mcclay, BCI
Observers:
Mr. Fatih Dogan
Mr. Axel Drieling
Mr. Wolfgang Bertenbreiter
Ms. Mandy Piepke
Ms. Claudia Fontana
Mr. Fabrizio Meliado
Ms. Hui Lan Wang
Ms. Yudi Yang
Mr. James Johnson
Mr. Lyman Stone
Mr. Patrick Packnett
Mrs. Renate Hahlen
Mr. Terry Townsend.
Secretariat:
Mr. Kai Hughes, Executive Director
Ms. Lorena Ruiz, Economist
Dr. Keshav Kranthi, Head Technical Information Section
Ms. Yana Pomerants, Executive Assistant
Ms. Lihan Wei, Statistician
1. Welcome and Introductions
Allan Williams, Chair of the SEEP panel opened the meeting by welcoming the delegates and observers present. The Chair ask all participants to introduce themselves and to give a brief introduction.
2. Approval of the Agenda
The Chair inquired if there were any proposals for changes or concerns regarding the agenda. Seeing none, the agenda was approved.
3. ICAC Strategic Review
Kai Hughes commented that his first task as the new director of ICAC is to conduct a strategic review of the organization. This initiative was endorsed by the Standing Committee. A dedicated committee will be formed and it will work as an advisory committee. The main responsibilities and functions of the committee will be to oversee the strategic review process and outline the scope and delivery schedule; establish measurable goals and objectives; and recommend to the Standing Committee any needed changes. A survey will be also conducted among all stake holders.
The Chair noted that the SEEP panel could play a more active role by either working collectively and provide consensus ideas of what would be ideal for the organization; or rely on the process proposed by the Executive Director of ICAC and give individual thoughts or suggestions on the focus areas the organization should work on.
Members of SEEP agreed that a group discussion within the committee will provide a better synergy and will have a greater impact on the strategic review process. The SEEP panel will include this issue as a dedicated item in a future meeting.
4. Recap of Meeting in Rome
The Chair noted that one of the main objectives of the meeting in held in Rome on October 19th was to identify working areas for the SEEP panel for the next two years. The chair mentioned that a series of presentations were provided by various participants, including FAO staff working in cotton, Better Cotton Initiative, GIZ and a SEEP member.
The Chair highlighted the key issues of the meeting, which are described as follows:
– Application of the indicators framework in Benin: a national stakeholder workshop selected a subset of indicators for the agricultural context of Benin. 40 indicators with emphasis on pest and pesticide management were selected. The project was conducted by FAO and collected data for cotton and maize. One of the main challenges identified by the pilot test, was the data collection, due to the complexity of the information and that it requires training and guidance on the implementation of the framework. The use of an app could facilitate the data collection process and the framework is highly adaptable to any crop system.
Mr. Terry Townsend asked if the information collected by cotton initiatives, such as BCI and CmiA, were harmonized with the indicators framework suggested by SEEP. Mr. Alan McClay responded that a benchmarking among all initiatives is needed. He also mentioned that BCI will be more than happy to share the information they have collected.
– Reducing Child labor in Cotton: the FAO project will start in 2018 and will be implemented by the ILO in partnership with the FAO. The aim of the project is to eliminate child labor and forced labor in the cotton, textile, and garment value chains in target producing countries through an integrated approach.
The Chair mentioned that according from the experience of Australia, the social and labor indicators are generally more difficult and problematic to collect. A collaboration and the implementation of the indicators
in the ILO project could fill in the gaps in the testing and the understanding of some of the practical issues associated with implementing the framework.
– Update on the Partnership on sustainable textiles: The GIZ representative gave a broad report of the activities of the partnership in 2017. Four initiatives were implemented: systemic improvement of labor conditions Tamil Nadu State/South India; water management in the cotton supply chain in Pakistan; sustainable chemical and environmental management in the textile sector; and strengthening availability of GMO free seed in central Asia.
The chair asked Ms. Piepke who was providing funding to those initiatives. Ms. Piepke responded that the money comes from the members of the textile partnership (brands and retailers) and also from the German government.
– Cotton sustainability issues: investment perspective: An economist from FAO presented an investor’s perspective of the cotton sector. One of the main concerns was related to the lack of context and the fact that by banning cotton production, would not necessarily result in a reduction or disappearance of issues such as child or forced labor, intensive water and pesticide usage, etc. The cotton sector is highly exposed to media attention and providing best practice examples, could be of further help to practitioners who work in development projects in the cotton industry.
– Better Cotton Initiative: the BCI cotton initiative collects two major categories of data: data on farming processes and practices, which measures the performance level on practices, and is related to compliance (for example farmers use efficient irrigation practices); and data on outcomes, called results indicators, and measures performance on outcomes (for example farmers use less water for irrigation).
– Interim Evaluation of the SEEP indicator framework: At the Plenary Meeting in Islamabad, governments suggested an evaluation of the experiences implementing the pilot test in different countries. The GIZ funded the report that was undertaken by Jens Soth from Helvetas. The main objectives of the report were to get an overview of which indicators have been used, modified or not used; identify the need for modification or local adaptation for several indicators; compile existing models on how cotton stakeholders could interact on a national level to implement the framework; and give guidance for further pilot tests and suggest further working steps to refine the indicator framework in a way that it can be taken up by further countries.
Although the report and the recommendations are not yet finalized, mayor conclusions and the proposed next steps were presented:
Mayor Conclusions:
– The draft report covers the experiences of the pilot tests in six countries in detail (Australia, Bolivia, Paraguay, Peru, US, Zambia) and integrates the key findings of another 5 countries (Benin, China, Cameroon, Senegal, Togo). Pilot tests in three more countries (Argentina, Colombia and Ecuador) are ongoing and it is hoped that these can be integrated into the final report.
– The utilization of the indicator framework allows for identification of improvement options in all areas of cotton farming and all pillars of the sustainability concept.
– The framework allows to act as crystallization point to convene national cotton stakeholders and align them to collaborate with one overarching goal.
– The implementation of the framework allows for internal as well as external communication of changes on the way towards sustainability.
– The utilization of the indicators collects a multitude of relevant data that can also be taken up by academia and thus find their way into scientific coverage of the topic.
– The data generated by the utilization of the indicator framework allow for cross-country comparisons and benchmarking and thus for an even increased opportunity to identify entry points for improving the cotton farming systems.
– The experience of the pilots showed that the latest and statistically reliable information about cotton farmers can be compiled. Based on this it becomes possible to decision makers to promote strategic changes within the sector.
Proposed next steps:
– Integration of the experiences of the ongoing pilot tests (Argentina, Colombia, Ecuador) and the pilots not fully covered yet in the report at hand (Francophone Africa, China).
– Compilation of the survey questions utilized for the individual indicators (already started within this interim evaluation) and collaborate with COSA to refine them.
– Convene delegates responsible for the various pilots (virtually or face-to-face) and discuss advantages and disadvantages of several organizational models.
– Allow the raw data tool developed by CIRAD based on the pilot test in China to be expanded to a general tool applicable also in other country contexts.
– Develop a guidance manual for the utilization of the different indicators and integrate the raw data tool mentioned above.
– Support and assist the conduction of further pilot tests.
– Pilot test should prepare to use a maximum of 40 indicators to be economically reasonable.
The most frequently used indicators revealed in this study should be utilized in any case.
– Pilot test should be kicked off by a stakeholder workshop that convenes a broad range of national cotton stakeholders
– The actors implementing the pilot test should conduct a thorough screening of databases and agricultural data monitoring schemes already existing in the country.
– It might be a reasonable idea to develop the proposed guidance manual for the indicator utilization in collaboration with further tests.
– Pilot tests should take into account already elaborated survey questions and developed tools for raw data processing.
The Chair noted that at the meeting held in Rome, Ms. Francesca Mancini expressed her concerns on some of the aspects of the report, specially the suggestions of modifying the numbers of indicators recommended by the panel in 2015. Mr. Williams commented that the purpose of having 68 core indicators was that the framework needs to be applicable for many cotton producing countries, which have different environmental, agro-ecological, climatic, social-economics and political conditions.
SEEP is aiming to have the report finalized by the end of the year, so that it is available in early 2018. It was agreed that the final report will be socialized among members and participants.
a. A ‘user manual’, based on the practical experiences of the pilot tests to date, would be an extremely useful document to support the implementation of the guidance framework.
b. Similarly, case studies describing the benefits that have been gained from using the guidance framework would also be extremely useful. The framework provides an excellent starting point for identifying and prioritizing issues in discussions at both a national level, and a more direct field or project level.
c. The development of tools, such as an app to allow data entry directly with an iPad would simplify the data collection process.
d. Pilot tests should ideally be kicked off by a stakeholder workshop that convenes a broad range of national cotton stakeholders.
e. The actors implementing the pilot test should conduct a thorough screening of databases and agricultural data monitoring schemes already existing in the country.
5. Discussion and Finalization of Plenary Meeting Report
In the SEEP meeting held in Rome, members agreed to work on 3 specific areas over the next 1-2 years. The areas were identified following a full-day meeting, during which members identified a range of potential activities and then discussed and debated which ones were to be prioritized. The working areas identified are:
– Soil Health Tool: a focus on soil health across the range of cotton production regions. SEEP considers this a critical area as recent Life Cycle Assessments highlight that the most significant impacts associated with cotton production are nitrogen fertilizer use and water use. And soil health fundamentally influences these two aspects of cotton production – the ability of soils to capture, store and release nitrogen and water. The anticipated outcome, to be developed over the next 12-18 months, is the sharing of site specific practices that may find utility in other regions. SEEP’s role would be to geographically expand the existing knowledge base on soil health and organize it into cotton grower relevant practices and information. The document would serve as a resource for the cotton industry to improve its environmental footprint and resource use efficiency regarding the critical inputs of fertilizer and water. The idea was put together by Kater Hake and Bill Norman.
Dr. Keshav Kranthi suggested that the SEEP panel should make a formal request to BCI, CmiA, Textile Exchange and Fairtrade, to evaluate and examine all 68 indicators for their relevance, utility and the best way to use the framework on the ground. He noted that it would be extremely important to harmonized the framework among all cotton initiatives.
– Continued testing and implementation of the guidance framework: Since the guidance framework was published in 2015, a number of countries have been pilot testing the framework in a range of ways, including initiating discussions on sustainability in the cotton sector, and publishing sustainability performance metrics.
– Alternative ways to report on the sustainability of cotton: SEEP members agreed that the panel should work on developing alternative ways of reporting on the sustainability of cotton production. The message to consumers, retailers and brands should concentrate on the positive improvements of the cotton sector and provide a holistic approach. The use of the data and the evidence collected by the different initiatives could help to demonstrate the improvements achieved so far.
6. Other business
The CHAIR thanked delegates and observers for their presence and declared the meeting closed.
The meeting was adjourned at 2:00 p.m.
Dr Mansurbek Muminov is a senior scientist at the Scientific Research Institute of Fiber Crops in Uzbekistan. His efforts have focused on basic cotton ginning and spinning, and he has authored more than 10 comprehensive research papers in those areas.
Dr. Keshav R. Kranthi, Ph.D is the Chief Scientist at the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), Washington, DC. Before joining the ICAC, he served as the Director of the Central Institute for Cotton Research (CICR) in Nagpur, India, from 2008 to 2017. Dr. Kranthi has thirty-five years of experience as a cotton scientist. He received a gold medal in his Ph.D. in 1991 and has been honored with more than a dozen awards, including the Best CPP Program Award for Research Leadership by the Renewable Natural Resources Research International, UK; the ICAC Researcher of the Year Award in 2009; the Vasantrao Naik Smruti Pratisthan Award in 2004; the ICAR National Award for Leader of Best Team Research in 2006; Fellow of the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences in 2009; the ISCI Recognition Award in 2010; Krishi Gaurav Award in 2010; Bhumi Nirman Award in 2011; ISCI Fellow in 2017; the Plant Protection Recognition Award in 2016 by the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences; Suresh Kotak Global Cotton Award in 2023 and the CRDA life time achievement Award in 2024. Dr. Kranthi has four patents granted in South Africa, Mexico, China, and Uzbekistan, and six patent applications in India. He has published more than 100 peer-reviewed research papers, 20 books/handbooks/manuals, 17 book chapters, and more than 50 popular articles. Dr. Kranthi has presented invited talks and conducted training sessions in more than 40 countries. His research citations are in excess of 6,500. As the chief principal investigator, he coordinated and led more than 35 externally funded international collaboration research projects.
Dr. Charudatta Mayee, Ph.D is a distinguished Indian agricultural scientist and administrator with over five decades of contributions to Indian agriculture. Dr. Mayee currently serves as Adjunct Professor at IARI, New Delhi, and several ICAR institutions and universities. Dr Mayee served as Vice Chancellor of MAU Parbhani, Director of the Central Institute for Cotton Research (ICAR-CICR), Nagpur, and Agriculture Commissioner for the Government of India. Dr Mayee served as Vice President of the National Academy of Agricultural Sciences (NAAS) India. Dr. C.D. Mayee has received numerous accolades spanning five decades, recognizing his transformative contributions to agricultural science. He is an Alexander von Humboldt Fellow and has received lifetime achievement awards from multiple institutions. His early career was marked by the Prof. M.J. Narasimhan Academic Award (1974) and V.P. Gokhale Award (1998), followed by national honors like the Vasantrao Naik Krishi Award (2002), ICAR Outstanding Team Research Award (2003), and Dr. B. Vishwanath Award (2005). He received Lifetime Achievement Awards from the Indian Society for Cotton Improvement (2008), National Academy of Agricultural Sciences (2011), and Indian Phytopathological Society (2017), among others. Four universities conferred Honorary Doctorates (D.Sc.) for his pioneering work (2009–2023). Recent distinctions include the Best Cotton Scientist Award (2022, Cotton Association of India), Krishi Maharshi for Cotton R&D (2024) and the winner of the ICAC Researcher of the Year Award 2025.
Dr. Khalid Mahmood is the Co-Founder of SAWiE, where he has been instrumental in developing digital farm advisory and farm data platforms supporting over 10,000 farmers in Pakistan, improving traceability and transparency across agricultural supply chains. He is leading the development of first-mile traceability systems and the TRUE Cotton platform, connecting farmers with sustainable global textile supply chains.
Dr Olivier Zieschank studied Management at the university of Lausanne, where he graduated in 2005. Until 2010, he worked in a Swiss-based start-up that specialized in negotiating cell tower lease agreements, where he became associate director. In 2010, he returned to university and studied applied economics in Neuchatel, Switzerland. He wrote his PhD in Economics at the University of Freiberg, Germany, where he developed a theory of organization. Mr Zieschank was appointed Economist at the ITMF in August 2017 and became director in January 2021.
Ashwin Chandran holds a Bachelors Degree in Textile Technology from UMIST, UK and a Masters degree in Business Administration from the University of Illinois, USA.
Mr. Shreyans Gupta is an officer of the Indian Revenue Service (IRS), currently serving as First Secretary at the Embassy of India in Washington D.C. In his current role, he oversees critical portfolios within the Income-tax Overseas Unit (ITOU) and the Commerce Wing, facilitating bilateral and multilateral cooperation.
Eric Trachtenberg is the Executive Director of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC).
Pia Terasa joined the textile machinery manufacturer Saurer over 25 years ago. She is responsible for marketing and communications at the group level. Coming originally from a non-textile background, market intelligence and business development have played major roles throughout her career. Her current main “hobby” is closely monitoring development of the textile recycling industry and circular economy.
Dr. Md. Fakhre Alam Ibne Tabib is the former Executive Director of the Cotton Development Board of Bangladesh, with over 32 years of experience in cotton production, research, and development. He has demonstrated strong leadership and communication skills in engaging with national and international stakeholders in the cotton sector.
Dr. Elsie Sia Kanza is the current Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the United Republic of Tanzania to the United States of America and Mexico. Prior to that role, Ambassador Kanza served as Special Advisor to the President of the World Economic Forum, and, before that, Head of Africa and Member of Executive Committee for 10 years championing growth and development in Africa leveraging public private collaboration. In 2015, She was awarded a Doctorate in Business Administration (honoris causa) by the University of Strathclyde for the transformative impact achieved in Africa.
Alison Ward has over 30 years of international experience in sustainability and corporate affairs. Alison is the CEO of CottonConnect, where she leads a team of over 100 employees, impacting the lives of over 800,000 cotton farmers in India, China, Pakistan, Turkey, Egypt and Bangladesh. Under Alison’s leadership the organization: drives supply chain transparency connecting sustainable fibres from farm to store; focuses on the rights and skills of women in supply chains through pioneering gender programmes; and continues to develop innovations at a farm level. She leads cotton strategies and programmes for global brands and retailers.


Name: Mary Concilia Anchang
Besim Özek
SIDDHARTHA RAJAGOPAL, Executive Director – TEXPROCIL