Textiles Observer Highlights Circularity, Measurement Integrity, and Investment Priorities

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Date Posted: February 19, 2026

Washington, DC — The February 2026 edition of the Textiles Observer — the ICAC’s free publication dedicated to textiles policy, investment, and system performance, is now available. The 56-page issue opens with an editorial by ICAC Head of Textiles and Editor of the Textiles Observer, Kanwar Usman, emphasizing textiles policy coherence, investment readiness, and measurable system performance as strategic priorities for ICAC member governments  .

In his editorial, Usman outlines ICAC’s expanding engagement in textiles, including preparations for the first-ever Global Cotton and Textiles Investment Summit, to be hosted by the Government of Uzbekistan, and previews textiles-focused sessions at the 83rd ICAC Plenary Meeting (March 23–24, 2026). The issue underscores the need to move beyond narrative-driven sustainability toward enforceable standards, credible data systems, and investment-aligned policy frameworks  .

The February 2026 issue features two in-depth technical articles:

  • “The Benefits of Participating in CSITC Round Trials,” by Dr. Marinus (René) van der Sluijs, Principal Consultant at Textile Technical Services and Chair of the Committee for the Commercial Standardization of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC). The article provides a comprehensive overview of ICAC’s Round Trials, explaining how standardized instrument testing supports accuracy, reliability, and global confidence in cotton fiber measurement. It details participation trends, evaluation methods, and the advantages of CSITC engagement for classing facilities, growers, traders, and spinners.
  • “Circularity in Textiles: The Systems Framework,” by Kanwar Usman. This extensive analysis examines circularity as a structural redesign of the textile economy rather than a downstream waste-management tool. The article addresses biological and technical material cycles, material pathway realities for cotton and polyester, the structural limits of bottle-to-fiber recycled polyester (rPET), the distinction between bio-based inputs and true circularity, and the economic and governance conditions required to scale use-phase circular models. It also highlights the importance of design alignment, data infrastructure, and enforceable policy frameworks in delivering measurable circular performance.

Together, the articles reflect ICAC’s continued emphasis on measurement integrity, enforceable circularity, and investment-ready textile systems.

To read the February 2026 edition of the Textiles Observer, please click here.

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About the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC)
Formed in 1939, the ICAC is an association of cotton producing, consuming, trading, and investing countries. It acts as a catalyst for change by helping Member governments maintain a healthy world cotton economy; provides transparency to the world cotton market by serving as a clearinghouse for technical information on cotton production; and serves as a forum for discussing cotton issues of international significance. In addition, Members can take advantage of the ICAC’s global network of cotton researchers, whose expertise covers the supply chain from farm to textile manufacturing, and have free access to its cutting-edge technologies like the voice-based app and virtual reality cotton training program. Committed to ensuring cotton’s continued sustainability, the ICAC is the only intergovernmental commodity body covering cotton that is recognized by the United Nations. For more information, please visit www.icac.org, Twitter or LinkedIn.

 

Dr. Elsie Sia Kanza is the current Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the United Republic of Tanzania to the United States of America and Mexico. Prior to that role, Ambassador Kanza served as Special Advisor to the President of the World Economic Forum, and, before that, Head of Africa and Member of Executive Committee for 10 years championing growth and development in Africa leveraging public private collaboration. In 2015, She was awarded a Doctorate in Business Administration (honoris causa) by the University of Strathclyde for the transformative impact achieved in Africa.

Ambassador Kanza also served in the government for a decade and a half as economic advisor to the President of the United Republic of Tanzania, as well as in various capacities with the Ministry of Finance and Central Bank of Tanzania.

In 2008, Ambassador Kanza became an Archbishop Tutu Leadership Fellow, and in 2011 a WEF Young Global Leader. She was also nominated as a Richard von Weizsacker Fellow and highlighted as one of Africa’s 50 most powerful women by Forbes in 2020. Additionally, she has served on various boards, including those of the African Leadership Institute - South Africa, Mercy Corps Europe, The Nature Conservancy Africa Council, and the Uongozi Institute.

Ambassador Kanza obtained a Bachelor’s degree from the United States International University – Africa in Business Administration and later graduated with a Master's degree in finance from the University of Strathclyde, United Kingdom and an MA in Development Economics, Center for Development Economics, Williams College, USA.

Alison Ward has over 30 years of international experience in sustainability and corporate affairs. Alison is the CEO of CottonConnect, where she leads a team of over 100 employees, impacting the lives of over 800,000 cotton farmers in India, China, Pakistan, Turkey, Egypt and Bangladesh.  Under Alison’s leadership the organization: drives supply chain transparency connecting sustainable fibres from farm to store; focuses on the rights and skills of women in supply chains through pioneering gender programmes; and continues to develop innovations at a farm level. She leads cotton strategies and programmes for global brands and retailers.

Previously Alison worked with Mondelez International and Kraft Foods and was the Global Head of Corporate Responsibility at Cadbury.

With a mission to drive scalable change, Alison served as a Member of the Sustainable Cotton Steering Committee for Textile Exchange.  She sat on the Sustainability Advisory Committee for the London Olympic Games and has been a Coach and Mentor to commercial teams at WWF and the Ethical Trade Initiative. Alison is also a Life fellow of the RSA- Royal Society of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce.

Alison has completed the Senior Executive Programme at Ashridge Business School and the Business & Sustainability Programme at the Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership. She holds a BA Hons in English from the University of Birmingham.

 

 

With more than 43 years of experience in textiles and fibre processing, Marinus has extensive commercial knowledge of all facets of the cotton production pipeline from field to fabric, specialising in yarn manufacturing and quality. Amongst others, he is a certified quality expert and is the current chair of ICAC’s Task Force for the Commercial Standardisation of Instrument Testing of Cotton. He is also an executive member of the Australian Cotton Ginners Association and the ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods. Marinus is also a member of the ITMF Spinners Committee and the Cotton Classing Association of Australia, and is the Australian fibre quality technical expert.
He has authored many articles and technical reports and has been invited to present at numerous domestic and international conferences. He has managed to secure a large and diverse number of projects, service agreements, and commission cotton textile processing work. He has won many awards, including the prestigious Australian Cotton Researcher of the Year Award.

Navdeep Singh Sodhi began his career at India’s largest cotton-textile company and has 35+ years of international experience in mill operations and management consulting. His expertise includes strategic policy, technology and international trade and investment. With experience in over 50 countries, he advises an international clientele and has conducted multiple international studies on the cotton-textile value chain. These include the global benchmarking study to evaluate the competitiveness of India’s textile industry for the Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL). He contributed to the formulation of the perspective plan for the Indian textile engineering industry (TEI). Mr Sodhi has been supporting the campaign for transformation of cotton in C-4 Countries + Côte d’Ivoire in West Africa and led the flagship study in West Africa commissioned by IFC (World Bank Group) that was recently presented at the World Cotton Day 2023 commemorated under the auspices of UNIDO in Vienna. Mr Sodhi is a partner with Gherzi Textil Organisation, Switzerland, and a Chartered Fellow (C.Text FTI) of the Textile Institute in Manchester, England.

Experienced professional with over 42 years of expertise in textile plant management, business establishment, plant turnaround, managing turnkey projects and overseeing large textile operations across three continents. Successfully initiated new factories in Asia, Africa, the Middle East, and North America. Has been business head responsible for P&L of large textile operation in Canada and USA.

Holds a Bachelor’s degree in Textile Technology from PSG College of Technology, India.

Key areas of expertise include:

  • Turnkey project management
  • Turnaround of large textile plants in diverse geographical locations
  • Establishment and management of businesses in various regions
  • Strategic, financial, and marketing planning and execution for textile plants
  • Product development
  • Customer relationship management

Name: Mary Concilia Anchang
Company: Onambele Anchang & Associates
Country: Cameroon
Position: Managing Partner
Website: www.oaalawfirm.com

Executive Chair

The African Chamber of Trade and Commerce ACC

Email: oaalawpartners2@gmail.com, africanchambernetwork@gmail.com

Websites www.africanchamber-abo.org  www.ficota.org

Called to the Cameroon Bar in 1993, Barrister Mary Concilia Anchang epse Onambele, is the managing partner at Onambele Anchang & Associates (OAALAW). She demonstrates consistency and dedication in 32 years of National and international legal work and advocacy. Renown for her legal prowess, her ability to delve into unconventional and controversial topics, has earned her access to several platforms at all levels, in the society. In her persuasive urge to address stubborn societal problems in the continent, she has created several tools to express her opinion and drive policy in a wide range of business sectors. She addresses legal, social and economic problems, with the perspective to contribute in crafting novel schemes, policies and practices to oblige relevance and impact for the welfare and livelihood of communities.

Her law practice, a full-service corporate law firm, serves a broad range of businesses in various industry sectors. Client satisfaction is pivotal at OAALA. Her firm is one of the most sought-after contemporary lawyers in the continent of Africa. Passionate, engaging and focus driven, her peers revere her resolve to address challenging matters in a friendly and dialogue mode. Her brilliance, and keen eye for detail earns great recognition from her clients.

She is the pioneer African IP lawyer, accredited with the African organization of Intellectual & Industrial property (OAPI) with jurisdiction in 17 countries since 1994.

In 1998, curious and concerned about Africa`s significant dependence on foreign intellectual property assets and imports of goods and services into the continent, she founded; “The Foundation for the Promotion of Inventions, Innovations, and Artistic Designs” (FPI) to promote research and development for African discoveries, talents, traditional Knowledge and know-how for validation of discoveries for local use and exports to global markets.

Retained in 1998, to advise the Cameroon Association of Inventors and Innovators, she represented a medicinal cure for hepatitis, known under the trademark ''HEPASOR,” at d the International Exhibition Fair (INPEX) in 1999 in Pittsburgh, where FPI met with Dr. Nakammatz, the renown Japanese inventor of Viagra.

Then followed, the BBC Tomorrow’s World London Exhibition Fair in 1999, where FPI received an award from Mr. John Trevors, the renowned British inventor of the “Touch lamp” for her exhibitions.

From 2001 -2006, she accompanied one of Africa`s most revolutionary, controversial and nonconventional research initiatives in HIV /AIDS for therapeutic vaccines. This discovery, led by one of Africa`s most renown Professors, a Surgeon and international award price winner for research in the treatment of retrovirus for Burkitt’s Cancer, Sickle cell and HIV /AIDS. At a time when HIV/AIDs was ravaging lives in the Continent of Africa, she played a very compelling advocacy role at all fronts, while advising on the patentability, design and trademark ownership of the Vaccine process across the globe.

As Cofounder of the Cameroon National Committee of the International Chamber of Trade & Commerce (ICC Cameroon) in 2021, she stunned the continent, in 2006, with her nomination by the World Business Council, of The International Chamber of Trade & Commerce (ICC) Paris, as the pioneer, African, female country, court member, at the ICC International Court of Arbitration, since its creation in 2023. A mandate she held 4 years..

From 2004 -2014, as a member of the ICC Paris Intellectual property (IP) and the Arbitration commissions, she contributed with experts from governments, Civil society, multinationals, intra governmental organizations, institutions and businesses, through successive annual COP Conferences, to address policy reviews on the global climate change Agenda, that lead to the signing of, the Paris convention in 2015 on climate change.

Coupled with her legal practice, she founded & Chairs “The African Chamber of Trade & Commerce” (ACC), a non-profit and non-governmental, private sector chamber, aimed at using Public, Private Partnerships (PPPs) as a strategic tool to build sustainable and resilient infrastructures. The aim is to avoid duplication and stagnation for gainful entrepreneurial business practices.

Focal on the ACC agenda, is her advocacy for Tripartite Partnerships, that would engage expertise in, North/South, South/South and North/North business ventures. This should invariably contribute towards impactful and traceable development in local African communities. Through this initiative, she pledges to bring her expertise and knowledge into a project, she is deeply passionate about, and believes could shift paradigms in the  continent.. That is; “Institutional Advocacy for 'Africa's Socio-Economic Development."

Convinced of the need to promote IP asset ownership in Africa for improved wealth for entrepreneurial self-reliant opportunities, she believes validating African inventions and innovations, would pave the way for IP ownership and knowledge transfer for capital markets.

She has since 2018 created “The International Forum for cotton, textiles, accessories & Fashion (FICOTA) to address the African Cotton value chain and supply chains, as pivotal for talents to create wealth and job opportunities in Africa.

In prelude to the 4th edition of FICOTA, coming up in November 2026, in Cairo, Egypt, she will be Speaking at the ICAC 83rd plenary conference coming up in Tanzania in November 2025, on the role of National policies for African textiles.

Transforming Cotton into Textile and things in Africa is a vision, FICOTA promotes for optimization and industrialization of African cotton and Textiles. The game changer for. (www.africanchamber-abo.org) FICOTA is created to facilitate sustainability and optimization in the African cotton value and supply chains from “Seed to Fashion” or from “Farm to Market” through value addition. (www.ficota.org ) The focus is on adapting ecosystems for Africa`s industrialization in the textiles industry.

The plurality, multi-culturalism and multidimensionality of ACC, provides a structure with the unique capacity for institutions and stakeholders to create adaptive business models, based on sector needs of partners. The purpose is to facilitate harmonious growth with efficient ecosystems, to implement attainable goals, through value addition, in local value and supply chains.

Accolades and Publications:

2016, OAALAW won the “AI African Award of Excellence.

2018, Recognized amongst 100 of the finest professional Women in a book titled “Women Pioneer In Dispute Resolutions” by Arbitral Women.

2019 Published an article on IP Funding: A Key to Entrepreneurial Development Through IP Asset Ownership in Africa in the London based “Women's IP Magazine

2020/21, Profiled in the Magazine “Rising Women”.

2023, Appointed Member of the International Cotton Advisory Committee/Private Sector Advisory Committee (PSAC)

2023, she was nominated as Executive member of the African Private Sector Summit. (APSS)

2024 she organized the 3rd Edition of the International Forum for Cotton, Textiles, Accessories & Fashion (FICOTA) in the sea site Ocean city, of Kribi, Cameroon.

2025, she published an article on “The Mystery, Power, Purpose and Ownership of Talent & Knowledge” in the London based “Women's IP Magazine”

She was nominated and ranked as the No. 6 in the Policy and Advocacy category for the Top 100 Influential Women Leaders in IP Law.

She is a current member of several association International Trademark Association (INTA), American Bar Association, Arbitral Women, Association of OAPI IP Agents, (AMOAPI), Foundation for the Promotion of Inventors ,Innovators  (FPI), Maman Eucharist du Mont Febe (MEMO) African Private Summit (APPSS), Africa US international Chamber of Commerce and Industry (AfUSA)  ACC and other

She enjoys travelling, music, sports, praying, and supporting charities.

 

Besim Özek

Strategy & Business Development Director

Following his graduation from Tarsus American College and Cukurova University Mechanical Engineering, he has taken a large and vital business role in Logistics and Purchasing Departments for over 20 years.

He is now Strategy and Business Development  Director in BOSSA which is one of the largest Denim Producers is Turkey. He has been very involved in Sustainable Textile Production.

He had been active presenting the company in;

  • Turkish Exporters Assembly, ITHIB (Member of Board)
  • Turkish Cotton Textile Manufacturer ‘s Union (Member of Board)
  • Turkish National Cotton Council (Member of Board)
  • The Union of Chambers and Commodity, Turkish Textile Industry Assembly

Twitter Besim Ozek:      @besimozek

Linkedin Besim Ozek:    besim-ozek

SIDDHARTHA RAJAGOPAL, Executive Director – TEXPROCIL

Dr. Siddhartha Rajagopal is the Executive Director of the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL). He holds a PhD in Management Studies and has nearly four decades of experience in international trade in textiles and clothing.

Over his career, he has worked across the entire textile value chain—from fibre to fashion—and has been part of several Government of India delegations and negotiating groups, including bilateral engagements with the USA, the European Union, and consultations at the WTO.

Dr. Rajagopal has played a key role in developing export promotion schemes, market development strategies, and organizing India’s participation in international textile exhibitions and trade delegations. He is currently involved in the implementation of the “Kasturi Cotton India” project in collaboration with the Cotton Corporation of India and the Ministry of Textiles.

Padmini Singla, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India

Padmini Singla is a career civil servant from India with over two decades of leadership roles in public administration. Currently serving as the Joint Secretary in the Ministry of Textiles, she spearheads the strategic development and policy framework for Natural Fibres, including Cotton.

An alumna of Delhi School of Economics, she holds an Executive Master’s from EPFL, Switzerland.